Designer Nicola Brognano is leaving Blumarine. The Italian brand and the outgoing creative director announced his surprising departure in a statement on Thursday.
Brognano was appointed creative director of the brand at the end of 2019 to breathe new life into it. His appointment followed the takeover of the Blumarine parent company by the luxury goods group Eccellenze Italiane Holding (EIH), which was newly founded by CEO Marco Marchi and which also includes the Liu Jo label.
“Nicola has successfully interpreted Blumarine’s DNA by presenting it in an original and contemporary way, revitalizing the industry and customers’ interest in the brand,” said Marco Marchi, CEO of parent company Eccellenze Italiane. “I would like to thank Nicola warmly for the high level of professionalism that he has demonstrated over the 4 years of this fruitful collaboration.”
Brognano, tasked with revitalizing the brand, has done so with plenty of Y2K references and, at least visually, brought the label back to its early 2000s heyday. In the short joint statement, no reasons were given for the sudden departure of the designer, who recently presented his last collection at Milan Fashion Week.
Brognano highlighted Y2K fashion
The designer remained true to his early 2000s style for the SS24 collection, which will now likely be his final performance for the Italian fashion house. Tube tops and low-slung trousers met micro-minis and wrap dresses so sheer they left little to the imagination, and the butterfly that has become his trademark in recent years was also present – albeit in shape of skimpy underwear. To top it all off, he chose angel wings that harken back to the glory days of Victoria’s Secrets and are a heavenly blend of self-indulgence and Y2K.
“Working as Creative Director of Blumarine, a brand that I have always followed with great interest, has been a great enrichment on a professional, creative and personal level,” said Brognano. “Putting the brand back in the spotlight has been a unique and exciting experience.”
After graduating from Milan’s Marangoni Institute, a stint at Giambattista Valli and founding his eponymous label, with which he won Vogue Italia and Altaroma’s “Who is on Next” competition in 2016, he moved to Blumarine at the end of 2019. Where the journey will take us is still unclear, but there is already speculation on social media about a move to one of the major French luxury fashion houses.