The Milan Fashion Week (MFW) collections for autumn/winter 2025 were rather reserved than bold, says Simon Longland, Buying Director – Fashion at Harrods, according to the “sophisticated impression” of the designers: inside on the London Fashion Week.
“The mood of the Milan Fashion Week felt like a direct continuation of the H/W 25 menswear collections presented in January,” said Longland. “This was a season of the transition in which there were several large fashion houses in the suspension – some lacked: e creative director: in while others may present their last collection under the current management.”
“As a result, many collections tended to caution rather than bold reinvention. But even within this reluctance, the fashion week of Milan confirmed Milan Status as the center for extraordinary craftsmanship and constant style, ”added Longland.
Fendi stood out as the highlight of the Milan fashion week. Longland said that the Italian fashion house had presented a collection, “the traditional craft seamlessly connects with modern sophistication”. Fendi celebrated his 100th anniversary and his first catwalking show since Kim Jones’ farewell in October. Almost 90 looks were shown that underlined the inheritance of the Roman fashion house.
“The ability of the house to reconcile tradition with contemporary attraction made it a clear pioneer of the season,” added Longland.
Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana impress on MFW
As for the best show format in Milan, the honor goes to Dolce & Gabbana, which according to Longland “dominated the art of spectacle”. The Italian brand organized a street party where the models switched from the catwalk to the street, where a DJ maintained the crowd.
“This immersive format blurred the boundaries between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself and created a dynamic and integrative experience,” said Longland’s rating.
MFW H/W 25 trends: shaggy textures, covered colors and a comeback from (wild) leather
With regard to the trends, Harrods’ Buying Directter emphasized the use of shaggy textures, whereby Shearling and artificial fur dominated the catwalks and performed in jackets and coats as well as food and trimmings on pants and skirts. This could be observed at Fendi, Sportmax, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani.
There was also a step towards a covered color palette with a touch of red. “Black and ivory formed the basis of most collections, while brown tones – from gentle latte tones to deep espresso – emerged as the strongest color history,” explains Longland. “Where designers set in color: The undeniable star was red, from bright scarlet red to deep bordeaux.” Rich red tones were spotted at Max Mara, Ferragamo and Jil Sander.
Leather and suede also experienced a comeback this season, which, according to Longland, supplemented the shaggy trends and was not only limited to outer clothing. Roberto Cavalli presented a sensual leather dress with a kick hem, and Prada sent models in leather skirts with paperbag waist, which were decorated with a loop, on the catwalk.
The last trend was oversize knitting goods, with “rough, enveloping knitting products added the season theme of tactile comfort and subtle luxury,” added Longland. This was a main feature of the Gucci show, where knitted twin sets were combined with decorated MIDI skirts, and at Etro.
Longland’s must-have-piece for autumn/winter 2025 from the MFW: “A beautifully worked shearling coat will be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, which embodies both warmth and timeless elegance.”
This article previously appeared on fashionunited.uk and was used with digital tools translated.
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