After months of waiting, the time had finally come: Duran Lantink made his debut at the French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier. If you don’t know Lantink’s work, you may have been surprised and keep a thread after taste. However, if you know your work, understand the perfect combination of Lantink’s style and the heir from JPG.
Lantink’s debut collection was given the name ‘Junior’. A suitable name for Jean Paul Gaultier’s successor. His appointment as creative director follows for several years with guest designers: inside. While the creative guests were looking for their vision for the Couture collections of the French fashion house, Lantink made his debut with the Ready-to-Wear collection. This marks the return of the Ready-to-Wear line on the catwalk.
Lantink has been working in the industry for years. Two years ago he made his debut in the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week. There he presented a series of ‘inflated’ iconic pieces. Classics such as jeans trucker jackets, bikinis and T-shirts were transformed in their form. At that time, Lantink created a clear, own design language, which is now also found in his debut at JPG.
Lantink’s debut divides the mind
The orange opening look seems to be an allusion to the corset with a pointed bra from JPG. However, he shows the stretched breasts known for Lantink’s style. The reference to the iconic corset later reappears in a blue and white version, carried by a male model. The inflated elements can be found on various bikinis, shoulder parts and in bomber jackets.
Several of the style elements characteristic of JPG were clearly recognizable. This includes nautical references and allusions to the bare body. Some sailor’s hut received a new shape and the illusion of the tattooed body was also seen on the catwalk.
The SS26 collection also showed daring cut-outs, which particularly emphasized the hips. Examples are a skirt that was dangerously deep on the side, and a top that barely covered the breasts. These excerpts were not only reserved for the female models on the catwalk. Lantink also transfers it to men’s fashion.
The pieces were most discussed with printed pictures of bare bodies. It was hairy bodies and even a penis could be seen. It is obvious that Lantink shares the same provocative design spirit as Jean Paul Gaultier. Gaultier sat in the front row during the show.
After the Ready-to-Wear debut, the fashion world is now waiting for Lantink’s Haute-Couture debut in January. The expectation: it is becoming even more daring than the industry is currently dreaming to dream.
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