“Should we slow down or speed up?” was the motto of the Fashion Day of the German Fashion Institute (DMI), where the trends of the AW23/34 season were presented last week. This question of meaning reflects the philosophical developments of recent years – not only in the fashion industry.
Calmness and mindfulness, which were inevitable at first, became measuring factors for new life structures and visions of the future. Fashion designers and labels are feeding this development with looks that have a timeless aesthetic – like at the Bottega Veneta FW22/23 show, where the models presented an elegant neutrality with classics like white tops and straight jeans.
This newly gained deceleration meets a contrast: zest for action and a spirit of optimism. According to Carl Tillessen, who initiated the DMI Fashion Day, this contrast is also reflected in fashion. Some fashion designers serve this striving for change through playful creativity with colorful color palettes and material combinations.
FashionUnited has summarized the four big trends in womenswear for the FW23/24 season.
Embrace Sobriety
The looks of the ‘Embrace Society’ trend are characterized by elegant and harmonious elements. A sober romance, achieved through delicate fabrics and fluid silhouettes, breaks with the rigor of tailored pieces, bringing softness and comfort to the styles. Overcut shoulders, asymmetrical lines and loose volume also give the classic wardrobe a nonchalance.
Hairy structures, in which shags and woven loops provide dimension, are complemented by fur imitations. As a contrast to the predominantly matt surfaces, metallic effects, velvety structures and silky materials bring shine to the looks.
Despite the neutrality of the colors, the combination of warm and cold undertones always stands out. The color palettes of the AW23/24 season are supplemented with subtle colors – greyish green but also powdery pink can be found in some looks. In addition, gray is finding its way onto the catwalks and shows itself from a new side with structured haptics and color gradients.
Second Nature
The neutrality of fashion contrasts with a nature-loving vagabond aesthetic. In combination with elements from functional and outerwear fashion, the result is a look that radiates arbitrariness and sophistication. However, the hybrid look, in which different styles, materials and colors are mixed, always remains modern.
Layered looks made of different knitted pieces with unusual patterns, loose skirts and pants, as well as eye-catching accessories create a folklore look. Flowers are a recurring motif in this style that visually emphasizes the closeness to nature, but there are also numerous patchwork patterns and animal prints.
Protective clothing such as heavy boots, gloves or raincoats attached to the gorpcore trend are ajar, provide this style of dressing the final adventurous touch. There are no limits to the color palette – but warm natural colors appear again and again, also in strong shades of ocher and copper. Mossy shades of green and blue, reminiscent of the shades of the ocean, complete the looks. In addition, ‘Recycled Brights’ serve as accents – strong colors with a matting veil, such as washed-out pink, orange and mustard.
Artificial elegance
In ‘Artifical Elegance’, inspirations from the future and the past flow together. The looks appear as if from distant universes and captivate with a differentness that radiates cool, self-confident glamour. Lively contrasts and distorted shapes contribute to an extravagant design language.
A particularly effective stylistic device for creating these looks are shimmering, structured fabrics that bring movement to the rather stiff silhouettes. Iridescent velvet, sequins and vinyl make for a mysterious appearance. High-cut collars, balaclavas and futuristic glasses reinforce the mysterious look.
Bodices with sculptural details add a combative, feminist edge to the designs, while the use of recesses and cut-outs exposes the body’s natural lines. Colored leather and vinyl, as well as black, create a hardness, while chromatic silver and cosmically shimmering material combinations bring an extraterrestrial touch.
Cool shades of grey, blue and violet express a view of the unknown, while shades of red ensure intensity and elegance. Combining pink and purple creates a bridge between the blue and red tones. Turquoise and petrol nuances set additional color accents.
Break pattern
The playful creativity indicated by the ‘Artificial Elegance’ and ‘Second Nature’ trends reaches a new dimension with the ‘Break Patterns’ trend. Surprising combinations and graphic elements bring a sporty component to the looks, while all rules are broken with wild pattern combinations.
Elements such as stripes and lettering, as known from college sportswear, breathe a retro character into the trend. Details reminiscent of tracksuits, such as colour-coded zippers and stand-up collars, reinforce the athletic aesthetic.
Unexpected but curated mixes of patterns challenge the eye. Color blocking brings calm to some looks. However, some outfits also appear to have been created “from a single source”. The patterns can be found in different variations in an outfit. Color breaks are formed by accessories such as belts or monochrome cuffs.
Comic-like prints on T-shirts and sweatwear complement the creativity with a childlike impartiality.
The color design of the looks is about the combination of loud and soft colors – strong turquoise is integrated into dark blue backgrounds, light pink is combined with mossy green and fluorescent orange is balanced with white. This brings a balance to the polarizing contrasts.