Privera, time for epidermal exfoliation. This is the season that brings with it the need for a deep renewal of the skin, eliminating the dead cells that have naturally accumulated during the winter. Usually, the most discussed ingredient for the face – given its stimulating and anti-aging abilities, rather than actual exfoliants – is retinol. But There are also alternatives equally valid, more suitable for sensitive skin, starting with some delicate acids.
Skin exfoliation, why is it necessary?
Let’s start from the basics. Exfoliation is a process of eliminating dead cells which are deposited naturally on the epidermal surface. The cellular life cycle in fact lasts a few weeks, after which the cells are replaced by new ones. In this process, however, there is an accumulation on the epidermal surface which makes it more opaque and dim.
It is in this phase that manual exfoliation of the skin comes into play. This step also helps to stimulate the microcirculation, so as to give a boost to the natural process of change.
«Under normal conditions, cell renewal occurs spontaneously through the so-called cell turnover, i.e. the physiological cycle of the skin. As the years pass, however, also due to factors such as pollution, environmental stress and sun exposure, natural renewal tends to slow down” explains Dr. Fabio Caprara, aesthetic doctor at MioDottore.
The result can be duller skinwith less uniform grain and lower brightness. «Proper exfoliation helps stimulate skin renewal, improve skin brightness, make the texture more uniform and promote the penetration of the active ingredients contained in cosmetics».
As the expert explains, the frequency of exfoliation depends on the skin type and its sensitivity. It should usually be done a maximum of twice a week: excessively aggressive or frequent exfoliation, in fact, alters the skin barrier and causes irritation, redness and hypersensitivity.
Retinol for exfoliation, yes or no?
«Derived from vitamin A, retinol is one of the most studied ingredients in dermatology and cosmetology. Its effectiveness comes from its ability to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production, two fundamental processes to keep the skin healthy and compact” continues the expert.
On a biological level «it accelerates the turnover of the epidermis and improves communication between skin cells. This progressively leads to more uniform, luminous and compact skin. Over time it can also help reduce fine wrinkles, skin blemishes and signs of photoaging. For these reasons it is often recommended in anti-aging skincare routines, but it can also be useful for skin with imperfections, enlarged pores or irregular texture, because it helps to normalize cell turnover.”
Being very effective, however, it requires familiarity and above all it must be used gradually. In fact, on some skins it can cause irritation, redness or even peelingphenomena that usually occur during the first weeks of use. For this reason «it is it is better to gradually introduce it into your skincare routinestarting with low concentrations and spaced applications.”
The “cons” of retinol
Not only that, but retinol has other “cons” in its use: «It is better not to use it for particularly sensitive or reactive skin because they can tolerate it with greater difficulty.”
Furthermore, «nand periods of strong sun exposure it is advisable to pay attentionbecause retinol can increase the skin’s sensitivity to light and in this case it may be appropriate to suspend its use. It is always advisable to combine adequate sun protection.”
How to choose exfoliants and retinoids
«The choice of exfoliants or retinol-based products should start from one evaluation of your skin type and sensitivity. For those approaching for the For the first time using these active ingredients, it is advisable to start with low concentration formulationsincluded in well-balanced cosmetic vehicles that also contain soothing and hydrating ingredients useful for protecting the skin barrier.
It is also important Don’t overload your routine: «Chemical exfoliants, retinol and other powerful active ingredients should not be introduced at the same time in the initial stages. Finally, qany routine that includes exfoliation or retinol should always be accompanied by daily sun protection, because skin undergoing renewal is naturally more sensitive to ultraviolet rays.”
Valid alternatives: bakuchiol and alpha-hydroxy acids
The most interesting, recommended for sensitive skin, is certainly the bakuchiol. It is a plant active ingredient that acts by promoting the cellular renewal, thus improving epidermal quality, without however causing irritation because it has greater epidermal tolerability.
«Other alternatives are the alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHA), which promote superficial chemical exfoliation and help improve skin brightness and uniformity.”
«The choice of the most suitable active ingredient always depends on the type of skin and the objectives of the skincare routine» concludes the expert.
