custo barcelona has returned to its international capital of fetish fashion: NY. At the Big Apple Fashion Week nailed a pike by Ángel Custodio Dalmau Salmons (Tremp; Lleida, 1959) in 1997, when the then-emerging New York Fashion Week (NYFW) began to stand out in front of major events such as Paris and Milan. Custo was the only European invited and the ‘New York Times’ fell at the feet of what it called ‘customania’. The whole world had to meet that Catalan who seduced the stylists of series such as ‘Friends’ and ‘Sex and the City’the same one that unleashed the madness when Julia Roberts she left the store in Manhattan of the designer who was going to become an architect loaded with bags. The protagonist of ‘Pretty woman’ wore some of her clothes with her iconic prints in such blockbuster movies as ‘Notting Hill’ and ‘Runaway Bride’. And she was not the only actress, Bridget Fonda also wore the signature in ‘Jackie Brown’, by Tarantino. And Madonna, and Brad Pitt, and Natalie Portman…
Since then, Custo’s love affair with New York and the US market has only grown stronger, since it is his main market and where the designer usually always presents his new creations. Just on the eve of this Valentine’s Day, the oldest of the Spanish designers at New York Fashion Week has once again conquered the city of skyscrapers with ‘Welcome to The Other Side’his new collection for the coming fall and winter.
ardent fans
Custo knows his most fervent audience well, and in his 51st parade He has come out to give them what they expect from him: “A lot of enthusiasm and carrying out very rigorous work on our genetics, on maintaining it and at the same time changing and refreshing it”. “It’s about continuing to be the same but in a different way,” stresses the designer of eternal youth and a free and revolutionary spirit.
Although Custo admits to being a fan of electronic music from Jean-Michel Jarréacknowledges that the title of his collection, ‘Welcome to the Other Side’, and of the French composer’s 2021 self-titled album, is just a coincidence. The expression has served him to synthesize the spirit of the new garments that he presents, where “functionality, aesthetics and comfort come together with creativity with a clear commitment to volumes and lines, and a risky selection of materials”, which are a trademark of the house for more than four decades.
As always, Custo affirms that he seeks “excitement and surprise” in your audience. Actually, he knows, “they’re not pieces you really need, but they all have a very emotional component to them,” she sums up. “In the end, it’s what people expect from us and it’s what we offer them,” she says proudly. “We understand that our clothes are not absolutely necessary, they are functional, but not essential. The title of ‘welcome to the other side’ is because more and more we try to make it a very emotional project”, reveals the restless creator, who only does a month that he has embarked on another artistic project, with a NFT’s collection made up of 10,000 digital works inspired by 118 of its most iconic prints.
Rosalia dress up
You know a benchmark in the North American capital of fashion, where another universal young Catalan woman has not stopped succeeding lately, rosalia, the total diva, who likes to wear the best brands. “We would be very excited to be able to dress Rosalía, a great reference. It would be an important plus to be able to collaborate with her, we would love to have the opportunity one day”, she confesses, since, in her opinion, “a great variety of her designs would suit her very well, also, I think that our collection is aligned with your values“.
“This collection that we presented in New York is a slightly smaller version of the one we will show in Madrid [el próximo sábado] and Barcelona. In the Spanish capital we will exhibit 12 more outings. In Madrid it also helps that we have a couple more days, and we always try to lengthen it a bit to differentiate it,” says Custo.
feathers, the star
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It’s hard for him to pick a favorite ‘Welcome to the Other Side’ garment, but notes that “special work has been done with the technical ‘oversize’ pens with a metallic look although with very soft fabrics, coats and dresses”. On the latter, designs with openings, asymmetries and polished architecture have been shown during the parade.
have also been seen oversized pants, and miniskirts that combine with ‘tops’, and that seek to provoke emotion in the woman who is committed to her safety and empowerment. A winter proposal not exempt from the seduction of metallic and shiny tones that make color, always constant in Custo, the appetizing protagonist even in winter. Finally, they have also highlighted the ankle boots and half-round boots coordinated with the garments.