THEintense, perfect for winter, friend of almost all skin types, especially dry and very dry ones: lto cold cream it is a particular face cream, with much loved characteristics, first of all, a special texture, with special characteristics. Everything you need to know.
Cold cream, the face cream against extra cold
There is difference between cold cream and moisturizing cream? Yes. There are in fact two different products and also have different functions: «To explain the difference in a simple way, it can be said that the moisturizing cream is like a bottle of water that quenches thirst and rebalances the skin, while the cold cream works more like a wool scarf that protects and prevents the hydration from evaporating” explains Dr. Chiara Bocchi, specialist in dermatology and venerology at Arcispedale S.Anna in Ferrara.
«They are two different products, both useful, but to be chosen based on the season, skin type and time of the routine». The cold cream is also very suitable for stressed and particularly sensitized skin. It is called this because of the sense of freshness it leaves on the skin once applied.
What’s in the formulas
The first formulation is thought to date back to the 2nd century AD, developed by the Greek doctor Galen with the basic cold cream preparation i.e. water, oils and beeswax, with a very protective function. Centuries later, the basic principle has not changed.
«From a scientific point of view, cold cream is a water-in-oil emulsion. It means that the lipid part – oils, waxes, sometimes petrolatum – constitutes the external phase, the one that comes into direct contact with the skin. The water is instead incorporated inside in the form of small droplets suspended in the fat matrix. The result is one decidedly rich cream, with a full and persistent consistencywhich remains on the skin surface longer than normal moisturizers. It is precisely this particular architecture that defines the unique identity of the cold cream.”
«When the cream comes into contact with the skin, part of the water trapped in the formula evaporates slightly, giving a refreshing, almost soothing sensation. This sensorial detail, rather than functional, has over time become one of the distinctive features of the product.”
Today’s cold creams
The original recipe hasn’t changed that much over the centuries. Contemporary variants have the addition of vegetable oils. «Rich in essential fatty acids, calming botanical extracts, antioxidants such as vitamin E and more stable and safe preservative systems. Despite these developments, the underlying logic is always the same: to create a protective and nourishing film capable of defending the skin from external agents.”
Cold cream and moisturizing creams, the differences
«The main function of a cold cream is to protect the skin barrier. This is not a cream created to provide active hydration, but a product designed for prevent the skin from losing the water it already has. In dermatology, this function is especially valuable when the skin is very dry, irritated, chapped or sensitized by harsh cleansers, intense cold or treatments such as retinoids and chemical peels. The cold cream creates a sort of shield that reduces water loss and allows the stratum corneum to regenerate and re-establish its integrity.” The two types of creams are therefore not interchangeable with each other.
Another big difference is in the structure itself: while the cold cream is a water-in-oil emulsion, with the lipid part dominating the aqueous one, moisturizing creams are the exact opposite, that is, they are oil-in-water emulsions. «This apparently technical difference is what determines the different user experience: the cold cream remains on the surface longer and gives a protective and enveloping effect, while the moisturizing cream absorbs quickly, it leaves a light finish and lends itself well to daily use and layering with other products such as serum, SPF or make-up.”
Different structure and different function. Cold creams work on occlusion: «its rich lipid component creates a film that limits the evaporation of water without providing more or hydrating active ingredients, adopts a protective and restorative approach.”
Instead, the Moisturizing creams integrate emollients that guarantee softer, plumper and luminous skin, from the inside out.
The different uses of cold cream
«An interesting, and little known, aspect is that the cold cream can also be used as a make-up remover and cleanser. Its lipid component easily dissolves make-up, sun filters, sebum and polluting particles. It is used in the evening and cleans without attacking, ideal for those who cannot tolerate foaming products or surfactants.”
Who are cold creams suitable for?
Due to its characteristics, cold creams are perfect for dry or very dry skin, in cold and windy climates or when «the skin barrier is compromised by aesthetic or dermatological treatments. It is perfect in the evening, as a restorative gesture, or in moments when the skin “asks for comfort”. However, it is not suitable for those with combination or oily skin, nor as a make-up base or during the hot monthswhen it would be too occlusive.”
So how do you choose between the two? «More than choice, you should understand what your skin’s needs are in a given context. The cold cream thus becomes a precious ally to use when really needed, while the moisturizing cream remains the faithful companion every day. Together, if inserted intelligently into the routine, they can offer the skin what it really needs: protection, balance and comfort.”