After a two-year hiatus from the catwalk, Burberry returned with a live catwalk show, held at Westminster’s Central Hall in London, organized outside of International Fashion Weeks. Creative director Riccardo Tisci showed both the men’s and women’s collections, both on his own terms and according to the brand’s own schedule. The collection was presented in a huge theater with a historic dome ceiling and a large organ as a backdrop.
It seems Burberry doesn’t need the framework of fashion weeks to prove its strength and international prominence. This is also the first collection without a CEO, as Marco Gobbetti left the brand in 2021 and now runs Ferragamo. New boss and soon-to-be ex-Versace CEO Jonathan Akeroyd will take over the role on April 1.
The brand is certainly in transition again, but whether that will be felt at the design level remains to be seen. Striking was a British attitude and a confidence Tisci has been able to build from his time in London and the two-year pandemic since the last show.
Burberry’s presentation followed the announcement of a collaboration with Supreme, perhaps as an informal way to showcase a new youth-led direction. This was also reflected stylistically in the baseball caps, logo jerseys, England sweaters and deconstructed trench coats on the runway. The runway show began with forty men’s looks, all featuring Burberry’s new hybrid sneakers. Not a single classic shoe was in sight. Tisci has a knack for streetwear, even if Burberry’s heritage runs deep and broad. Luxury brands have many stories to tell and customers to please, and designers like Tisci have to strike a balance between image, tradition and sale.
Polka dots provide a clever update of the classic trench coat for the women’s collection. Elsewhere, plaids featured tartans, and only one of the 56 looks used the infamous beige plaid pattern: a ruched shirt dress paired with thigh-high boots designed to look like stockings.
Taking to Instagram, Burberry explained that London is an attitude: forward-thinking, adventurous, global and inclusive. This spirit was also reflected in the show.
Climate neutral
Burberry shared that its FW22 fashion show will be certified carbon neutral and that the company has taken steps to first reduce its environmental impact and then offset the carbon emissions associated with the show.
This translated article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk.