THEThe Vitamin C Day, which is celebrated on April 4, is the perfect opportunity for (re) discovering the virtues of vitamin C in skincare. A real friend molecule for the skin, loved from the celebrations but also by dermatologists. Here are all why, and a guide to use.
Vitamin C, the skincare ingredient of spring
Since 2019, the April 4 is known as the Vitamin C Dayestablished in the United States by Skinceuticals and then celebrated all over the world. So much appreciation is due to Many benefits of vitamin C, antioxidant molecule capable of reducing free radicals and illuminating the skin: “It is a large ally for the skin, especially in spring: it affects the synthesis of melanin, helping to standardize the complexion and illuminating immensely” he explains Costanza Consorti, head of training and scientific communication at Laboratoire Svr Italia.
During the change of season, the skin particularly benefits from it. Antioxidants, of which vitamin C is rich, rThe production of free radicals stimulated by stress, UV rays, life in the city is eighth.
What does “stabilized” vitamin C say?
What is vitamin C sensitized and why is it essential that it is, especially in this period of the year? «By its nature, This ingredient is hydrosoluble but above all it is not stable, that is, it oxidizes by losing effectiveness »continues the expert.
«To inhibit the oxidation of vitamin C once in contact with the air and to preserve its effectiveness, it can be stabilized, in different ways ».
The wording «3- O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid indicates his Stabilization with functional groups of molecules that guarantee optimal and very fast absorption. This type of stabilization is often used in aqueous -based formulations such as serums, To ensure maximum antioxidant, lightening, uniform and anti-aging effectiveness in less time »explains the expert.
Alternatively «stabilization can also take place with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitethat is, the stabilization of ascorbic acid with palmitic acids which promote gradual absorption. Being in a liposoluble form, it is used more in nourishing creams and treatments. This type of stabilization is more suitable for sensitive skin and The benefits remain the same: antioxidant, moisturizing, uniform, illuminating, anti -aging “
A delicate molecule
For these particular degradation characteristics, it must also be borne in mind that any cosmetic formula based on vitamin C it must be perfectly preserved in the absence of air, in order not to compromise their integrity. For this reason the cosmetics with this ingredient very often are not in the jar But in a airless bottles or rooms, never in contact with the air, or in specifications Formulas in dust, mini serums or sachets to “activate” Only at the time of the application.
In summer yes or not?
The formulations with stabilized vitamin C can also be used in summer, applied before sun protection: “In fact, vitamin C protects cells from UV rays thanks to its antioxidant action, increasing protection from photo -aging. For this reason it is important to use it also under the solar so as to make them act in synergy ».
Attentions to concentrations
Another trick, take care of the concentration of vitamin C indicated on cosmetic products.
“In minor concentrations or equal to 2%vitamin C has a delicately exfoliating and illuminating action, e It promotes skin regeneration and greater absorption of the following skincare active ».
«In concentrations above 5% Up to 20%, it has a uniforming action of the complexion and smoothingas it stimulates cellular change, and antioxidant protecting the skin from the free radicals of oxygen generated by exposure to UV rays. In addition, at high concentrations, it promotes collagen synthesis by improving skin elasticity “explains the expert.
How much can the concertation of Vitamin C arrive in a cosmetic? «Generally around 15%-20%even if there are serums on the market with a concentration of 30%. The greater the percentage, the more intense and quick the resultsbut the stability and construction of the formula varies. Let yourself be advised by a dermatologist, for the most correct choice. The effects on the skin are quickly seen ».
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