Are unknown faces the future of fashion Week?

The much defendant downturn and the changing landscape of luxury expenses have put the fashion industry into turmoil. This upheaval is not only reflected in the financial results and changes in the creative leadership, but has also changed the approach of the brands to Fashion Week and their strategic use.

In contrast to the financial challenges with which many luxury fashion brands are currently confronted, the Earned Media Value (EMC) recorded astonishing growth for the autumn/winter season 2025. The season generated $ 775.9 million EMC-an increase of 47 percent compared to the previous year. But what contributed to this success? And how did the brands use the power of social media to profile themselves? The PR and image agency Karla Otto has examined these questions for the HW25 season

For some, the key to success was in a “less is more” approach, which set up on the strategy of the previous spring/summer season. This time, however, this meant achieved more with fewer resources. EMC growth took place despite a decline in number of participants and social media posts around the views that decreased by 17 percent. This encourages the idea that quality and not quantity has the true effectiveness.

What is effective?

While social media has increased the cultural importance of the “Fashion Month” in the past, many brands are now increasingly relying on perceived exclusivity. The aim is to consolidate brand loyalty and to increase the desire through shortage – even with regard to prominent guests.

But even though some brands were working with influencers: reduced the inside, new names continued to achieve great effect. Stars from the Asia-Pacific area, especially K-pop idols and Thai actors: Inside, remained dominant-South Korean talents made up half of the ten most influential personalities. At the same time, new players started the plan, including up-and-coming Turkish influencers: inside and digital native social media commentator: inside that gave the Fashion Week a fresh perspective.

While some luxury brands reduced their guest lists to strengthen the exclusivity, others focused on the radiance selected talents with an international fan base. So they ensured that their presence remained at the center of the fashion talks.

The conscious selection and invitation of personalities with highly committed followers: inside-which not only appear in droves in front of the venues, but also actively deal with online content-increases the EMC numbers of the supported brands significantly. This was particularly clear in the K-Pop community. This development illustrates the growing realization that strategic celebrity placements can throw out significant digital dividends, even in economically challenging times. For brands that want to benefit from this dynamic, the key is to understand which personalities have the greatest impact on the digital audience.

In the HW-25 season, aspiring music stars such as the singers Doechii and Chappell Roan came into focus, which penetrated into the fashion sphere with remarkable EMC contributions. This once again emphasized that the cooperation with emerging artists can be as effective inside with highly committed communities as with established A prominents.

Turkish actors: inside, in turn, are becoming increasingly important because their show appearances and their private life become a national topic of conversation – a trend that increases their attractiveness for brands that want to expand into markets of the Middle East and Eastern Europe. Through the strategic cooperation with these entertainment power packs, fashion houses not only ensure their visibility, but also actively shape the cultural zeitgeist in an increasingly fragmented digital landscape.

While brands that rely on talents with hyper-committed fan communities recorded an explosive increase in their EMC this season, more and more shows opted for a reserved casting-with names that are so unknown that they only cause a stir in niche communities.

According to Karla Otto, this approach is quite understandable, especially in view of the forecast that consumers: on the world worldwide are increasingly local influencers: inside instead of large celebrities. Social media continues to have a homogenizing influence on popular culture, which reinforces the relevance of local personalities. But how does this strategy work for fashion brands that want to generate maximum attention during the Fashion Week?

Miu Miu delivered a best practice example this season by not completely giving up big names. Supermodel Gigi Hadid ran for the Italian label as well as actress Sarah Paulson and Model/Influencer Amelia Gray. At the same time, the Italian label presented emerging gene Z stars such as Cortisa Star and Nettspend-names that are hardly known outside of their community. This indicates that the combination of “insiders: interior knowledge” and prominence could create a new type of buzz, which is well received both within the fashion industry and the regular spheres of the mainstream (social) media.

Similar to the realignment of the influencers: Interior strategies were divided into two different camps this season: those who postponed the limits of show production with large, immersive experiences, and those who simply kept things to strengthen the feeling of exclusivity.

Coperni, one of the pioneers for a long time when it comes to viral runway moments, organized a LAN party that brought in $ 12.1 million EMC, while Valentino chose a set that was reminiscent of a club toilet, and thus stated that creativity was once again the determining currency of the season.

According to Guillaume Troncy, co-CEO of the design studio Bureau Betak, shows are about “expanding the limits of creativity and consumers: in a dream, a vision of letting a story immerse yourself. The outstanding views of this season made it clear: Theatrics and emotional response are still important, but it is also important to have a tailor -made, well -thought -out approach.

Haider Ackermann’s excited debut for Tom Ford, on the other hand, was a lesson in luxury as a carefully kept experience – UR 200 invited guests underline the cultivated aura of the desirability of the brand. Similarly, Louis Vuitton, who brought a selected group to a secret place, while Bottega Veneta’s exclusive show, moderated by musician Patti Smith, was only accessible to the inner circle of the brand.

At the same time, a growing number of labels looked beyond the traditional limits of fashion and embedded in underground cultural movements. Through cooperation with party collectives-such as Fiorucci’s collaboration with the Milan Gatto Verde or Avavavs cooperation with the Queeren Latinx platform Trrrmoto-brands demonstrated that true influence does not depend on celebrities, but to grasp the puls real communities.

In a season in which virality was still a measuring size, but not the only one, these alternative strategies underlined a decisive change: the most powerful fashion statements are not always created in the largest arenas, but often in the unexpected rooms-with a colorful mixed guest list.