The most excited debut by Julian Klausner as creative director of Dries van Noten has finally taken place. On Wednesday, March 5, he presented his first collection for the renowned Belgian fashion house in the magnificent Opera House Palais Garnier in Paris. “This collection is a tribute to the transformation – the quiet, but powerful dialogue between the past and the future, which constitutes the essence of Dries van notes,” Klausner describes his vision.
The dark start of the show was striking. Deep black tones and dark nuances initially dominated the catwalk before the color palette gradually opened. Then the trademark of the house was in full bloom – a virtuoso game of the patterns.
Olive green met violet, karos met on polar cadots, burned orange merged with gray, green dots contrasted with violets, while pink and red entered into an unexpected harmony. The opulent variety of materials – silk, jacquards, velvet, fringe and tassel -like decorations – once again underlined the distinctive handwriting of Dries van notes.
Julian Klausner draws inspiration from the Paris Oper
The choice of the location was no coincidence – the Palais Garnier served as a central source of inspiration.
“I imagined women who walk through the opera, take up fabrics and objects and tie them together with a laces while looking for an answer to an unknown question,” said the designer. The references to the magnificent interior of the opera are clearly reflected in the collection-from luxurious velvet fabrics to Jacquard-woven textiles with carpet appearance to decorative tassel details.
Although the style of the house is known for its eclectic manuscript, the collection does not appear to be interpreted indiscriminately. On the contrary-if you look at the Accessories of the FW25 collection, you immediately recognize the harmonious coordination with the clothing. Materials and patterns of the outfits are reflected in pockets and shoes, while fine details in belts, crawls and coats are skilfully picked up.
A debut can be for a creative director: Inside – in recent years, some designers have had to clear their posts after less convincing initial collections. But this fate seems unlikely for Klausner. The reactions on social media are mostly enthusiastic, and when he stepped onto the catwalk at the end of the show, he was welcomed by the audience with warm applause.
This article previously appeared on Fashionunited.nl and was used with digital tools translated.
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