MEntre the fashion industry reacts to the news of the appointment of Glenn Martens at the helm of Maison Margiela, the spotlights remain focused on Paris. Where, until tomorrow, the exclusive défilé dedicated to theHigh fashion. On the afternoon of January 29, however, the most awaited event of this particular fashion week took place: The first Valentino Haute Couture fashion show signed by Alessandro Michele.
After the debut of last September with the collection Ready to wear, The Roman creative director He is now called to try his hand at the Savoir-Fairethe creativity and theartealism typical of couture. As is now customary in his work, Michele has built a dialogue between present And pastbetween ancient references and contemporary quotes, merged into Ben 48 look. “High fashion is a dress that does not respond to real life,” said the designer on the eve of his first parade Valentino Haute Couture.
The concept of the list, according to Umberto Eco
I am, once again, the literature and more generally the culture The starting point of the show entitled Valentino Vertigineux. For his first Couture collection, Alessandro Michele looked at ad Umberto Eco and its definition of listconsidering the origin of culture itself. A practice, that oflist and of theenumerationwhich on the one hand reflects the attempt to circumscribe and delimit the infinite extension of the existing. On the other hand, however, it can take on a decidedly more poetic character, transforming itself into an imaginative, aesthetic and narrative tool. «These considerations […] they prompted me to imagine every single, finished and unrepeatable dress, like an uninterrupted and potentially infinite catalog of words: an ungrammatical list that proceeds by accumulation and juxtaposition, “explained the creative director.
Valentino Haute Couture, vertigo and opulence parade
Valentino’s high fashion show starts in front of one black screen. Constantly illuminated by an infinite list, precisely, of terms and definitions. There vertigoevoked in the title of the défilé, finds himself on time on the journey beyond the time and the eras of Michele: the designer moves in fact between Middle Ages And Renaissancebetween Maria Stuarda and the Count of Montecristo. Although there are already identifying elements of the new Valentino, polka dots and lace tights above all, the meticulous and in -depth study of forms, volumes And silhouette. In addition to maniacal attention to fabrics And processing different. To be joined and merged into creations “patchwork“, The result of stratifications and contrasts.
The look that opened the show (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics)
On the catwalk, they especially parade with clothes with skirts with exaggerated proportionscrossed by flounces, rollers or ruches, balanced by adherent bodices and desired life. Two -tone clothes from the straight line are unexpectedly sovered, thanks to the addition of voluminous lateral inserts. Turkish trousers, on the other hand, are brought with short jackets with precious embroidery. Merlets and lace alternate with draped fabrics in bright shades, smooth velvet inserts and delicate floral patterns. Fiocchi, pleated collars, and rhinestones rise to the definitive symbol of the opulent and composite imagination of Michele.
Metallic and precious finish, overlaps and 3D decorations in the Valentino Haute Couture collection (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics)
More is more
A detail from the Valentino Haute Couture 2025 fashion show (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images For Valentino)
A superficial look is not enough to understand and appreciate Michele’s genius. The designer, in fact, excels in creating accessories and decorative elements far from secondary. To hit, in this case, were the jewels. Many of the 48 clothes, in fact, were accompanied by scenographic bijoux, tinsels to be carried in the head characterized by crystals, also proposed on decidedly bright glasses. In the balance between the Venice Carnival and the world of wrestlingdid not miss mask colorful from finish decorated or embroidered. Furthermore, the sleeves of several clothes could boast the addition of maxi Bangle with the eighties, multicolor or distinguished by shining details.
Finally, to make the difference was the cast chosen by Valentino. In addition to a certain fluidity gender, now essential in Michele’s vision, on the catwalk have paraded numerous models âgé. A successful attempt towards an ideal of diversity increasingly rare (and appreciable).
A new era started for Valentino. Also in the sparkling world of Haute Couture.
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