Fashion Week starts on Tuesday in Paris – accompanied by numerous changes in the positions of creative directors. The return of Jacquemus and the debut of Peter Copping at Lanvin are eagerly awaited.
After stops in Florence and Milan, men’s fashion will stop in Paris from January 21st to 26th. As in Milan, the program is a little less densely packed than last year with 37 shows and 30 presentations for autumn/winter 2025.
“A season is emerging that is a little different from the usual ones,” Adrien Communier, fashion editor at GQ France, tells AFP. He points to the numerous changes in the management of the creative departments in recent months.
Absences and surprises
For example, Givenchy is missing. New creative director Sarah Burton, who was appointed in September, is saving her first collection for women’s fashion week in March. After an initial show in September, Valentino’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, will return during Haute Couture Week, which follows men’s fashion week. Another notable absence is Loewe: industry media speculates that creative director Jonathan Anderson is on the verge of leaving.
“Even if there are some cancellations, Paris remains by far the most extensive and creative of the fashion weeks,” emphasizes Alice Feillard, buying director for men’s fashion at Galeries Lafayette.
Louis Vuitton opens the fashionable and prominent event on Tuesday evening with the presentation of Pharrell Williams’ fourth collection. Other major luxury brands such as Dior Homme and Hermès will also be represented, as will the Japanese houses Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Mihara Yasuhiro.
The Return of Jacquemus
One of the most anticipated shows is undoubtedly that of Jacquemus, which returns to the official calendar after an absence of five years. In recent years, the designer from Provence has presented his collections whenever and wherever he pleased – be it in a lavender field in the south of France or in the park of the Palace of Versailles.
Lanvin also returns after a two-year absence with the first collection from Peter Copping, who was appointed creative director of France’s oldest couture house in June 2024.
Willy Chavarria is also eagerly awaited. The Californian designer, who runs his own label in addition to his position as Vice President of Design at Calvin Klein, is presenting in the French capital for the first time. The Frenchman Emeric Tchatchoua, founder of the streetwear label 3.Paradis, is also featured in the official calendar for the first time.
As in previous seasons, Saint Laurent is missing. However, the Anthony Vaccarello-led brand is expected to present in Paris following Men’s Fashion Week.
Comfort and elegance
As for the silhouettes, what can we expect? After the end of the dominance of streetwear, a trend towards more casual “tailoring” is emerging.
“There’s this kind of very classic silhouette – a bit dandy, but chic, elegant and casual at the same time – that’s catching on right now,” comments Alice Feillard.
A big trend in the 2025 spring/summer collections, “workwear”, based on work clothing, could also be found on the catwalks, experts predict. Outdoor style, inspired by highly technical trekking clothing, is also expected in the collections.
In terms of materials, leather remains the focus – “a little lacquered, a little shiny, almost vinyl,” explains Feillard.
As for the colors, Adrien Communier observes: “For two seasons we have been seeing brown everywhere. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s present again this season.” (AFP)
This article previously appeared on Fashionunited.fr and was created using digital tools translated.
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