Since Pamella Roland’s founding in 2002, the US brand has steadily become a staple of evening wear, securing a permanent spot at red carpet events as well as on the shelves of luxury department stores. To achieve this status, the brand’s founder, designer and namesake, Pamella DeVos, focused on the self-confident woman as her target group: her customer wants a versatile wardrobe and is therefore looking for products that reflect this.
This focus also extends to the label’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, which debuted on Monday evening at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) – an event where Pamella Roland has been a regular guest for several years. The collection, which includes both glamorous dresses and classic tailoring, was inspired by the designer’s trip to Belgium, according to the collection’s show notes. The country’s aesthetics are reflected in the architectural silhouettes and a color palette of bronze, gold and red tones interspersed with historical decorations – a further indication of the country’s character.
DeVos described the design details as a “fusion of old-fashioned sophistication and modern appeal.” They also influenced the selection of velvet, sequin and jacquard dresses, which also feature a range of technical elements, including three-dimensional organza flowers, draped fringe and dramatic capes, which underline the designer’s concept.
Following the show, FashionUnited spoke to designer Pamella DeVos about the current state of the fashion industry in New York, the major red carpet events and the brand’s future plans.
Who is your label’s current muse?
Our muses have always been our customers. We love seeing them wear our clothes and they continue to inspire us to be as extraordinary as they know us to be.
What does Pamella Roland’s customer look like?
The typical Pamella Roland woman radiates self-confidence, glamor and sophistication. She knows how to command a room with her charisma—but she’s not afraid to add a little sparkle. We want women to feel confident and beautiful in our clothes.
This awards season, there has been talk of a decline in demand for eveningwear and a shift towards ready-to-wear. Have you experienced this yourself? How did you adjust to that?
We continue to see consistent demand for dresses for red carpet events and have not seen a decline in requests for evening gowns during awards season. If anything, we received an increase. Instead of ready-to-wear clothing, more customers are asking for suits for events.
What significance do red carpets still have for you in today’s fashion landscape? Has this part of the industry changed much?
Red carpet events can show a wider audience who the Pamella Roland brand is. Especially at television events: When the stars wear our designs, they show the audience a great embodiment of the Pamella Roland woman. I think in times of the pandemic and the SAG strike, people want to go out again and dress up for special occasions.
How do you usually prepare for red carpet season and how do you decide who will wear your creations?
We dress every woman and help her to emphasize her self-confidence, glamor and elegance. We recently dressed Issa Rae for the Golden Globes and the Emmys. She is a bundle of energy and we were thrilled to be a part of her big moments.
Investments in the local fashion industry were also regularly reported in New York. Have such efforts made a difference in the past year?
I have been a member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) since 2010 and it provides valuable resources for both emerging and established designers. Resources that are very important to give designers security and enable them to create something authentic.
I also think it is very important for labels in general to invest in their social media presence: this is a key to strategically marketing a brand to a wide audience. Influencers and celebrities have a following, which is helpful for American designers to connect with them – and thus create a greater impact for their label and the fashion industry in general.
What do you think the city needs to do to support local design and manufacturing? Is there something that is still missing?
The city needs better ways to promote local talent. There are many talented artists whose voices are lost on social media. The city needs more events and spaces where artists can network and meet other creative people. This allows them to form relationships with people who can help them reach their full potential.
What was your inspiration for this FW24 collection? What influenced the designs? How have they evolved from the typical Pamella Roland codes?
For the FW24 collection we were inspired by my recent trip to Belgium. We wanted to combine the country’s historic charm with modern elegance. The designs showcase a fusion of old-fashioned sophistication and modern charm. The embroidery echoes the ornate architecture and gives the dresses a touch of royal splendor.
Velvet and brocade fabrics provide a luxurious texture and reflect the silky appearance of Brussels’ historic interiors. This season we worked with cashmere again and took the material to a new level with beautiful embroidery. Our opening look is a cashmere cape with ‘The Grand Place’ embroidered in gold thread and gold sequin flowers.
What does the label’s near future look like?
We are always trying to expand the world of Pamella Roland. Lately we’ve been doing a lot as a brand to evolve with and beyond our clothing line. Our first perfume was a success, so everyone can look forward to expanding our perfume line. We also want to continue our partnership with Rizzoli to build on the success of our first illustrated book.
Our partnership with Harrods has also been a great success and we want to explore where we can showcase the Pamella Roland brand on a more in-depth basis. We want to find out where we can provide a full brand experience so that customers can get an up-close look at the artistry we put into our designs. Online is the fastest way to get our products, but nothing compares to seeing the handcrafted in person.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Pia Schulz