THEThe so-called game of chairs that characterizes the fashion industry, with its continuous turnover and comings and goings at the top of the fashion houses, is writing a new chapter today. After Gabriela Hearst’s joyful farewell to the last Paris Fashion Week, Chloe he chose Chemena Kamali as new creative director. It is a homecoming for the German-born designer, who had worked at Chloé for several years, collaborating with both Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller.
The Richemont group, owner of Chloé, therefore preferred to immediately raise the curtain on Hearst’s heir. Furthermore, the appointment of Chemena Kamali at the helm of Chloé continues the happy “dynasty” of female creative directors at the helm of the brand, a more unique than rare case for the fashion system.
Who is Chemena Kamali
Class 1981, born in Germany, Kamali can boast a prestigious degree in fashion from Central Saint Martin’s in London. In her more than twenty-year career, her two significant experiences stand out within Chloe. Kamali, in fact, was part of the team Phoebe Philo when the English designer was at the helm of the fashion house. She then returned to Chloé a few years later, in 2013, to work together with Clare Waight Keller as Design Director. Since 2016, however, you have held the role of Women’s Ready To Wear Design Director from Saint Laurentworking shoulder to shoulder with Anthony Vaccarello.
From Chloé to…Chloé
«My heart has always been with Chloé. It’s been like this since I set foot in the house over 20 years ago. Coming back is natural and very personal. I am extremely honored to take on this role and to create from the vision that Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld defined at the beginning of the house’s history. I hope to be able to capture the emotional connection and spirit of Chloé today”, declared the new creative director.
A portrait of Chloé’s new creative director, Chemena Kamali (Photo Courtesy of David Sims)
The appointment of another creative director – that of Sean McGirr by Alexander McQueen, announced a few days ago – had sparked quite a few criticisms and reflections on a fashion industry dominated by male designers. The choice of Chemena Kamali by Chloé, however, confirms a positive trend for the maison, at whose peak there were mainly female designers, from Gabriela Hearst to Natacha Ramsay-Levi, from Clare Waight Keller to Phoebe Philo, up to Stella McCartney. This will not be enough to revolutionize the entire sector, but it remains a very important signal.
Kamali will present her first pre-collection for Chloé in Paris in January 2024, while the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection will be revealed during Paris Fashion Week the following month.
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