Pfor many women, the dyeing earths are becoming a very valid alternative to the classic dye: henna, indigo, madder, turmeric, rhubarb are just some of the natural solutions that don’t they only color the hair without attacking it, but nourish and polish it. Watch out for allergies and pool chlorine. For the rest, they are used like this.
Henna and dyeing earths: what they are and how they work
The lands or dyeing herbs are the oldest hair dyes it is said they were also used by Cleopatra, and they are 100% natural. In the last decade, henna & Co have experienced a moment of great attention: they are a green choice compared to the classic chemical dye and they give a very natural color that builds up application after application.
«Compared to the classic dye, henna and other herbs they do not perform a chemical action therefore they cannot penetrate deeply but they “lean” on the external structure creating a colored film around the stem. Furthermore, they act not by changing the color but work on tone-on-tone, for this reason they perform more of an action similar to that of reflexants” explains Tommaso Incamicia, owner of MyPlace Studio, “enthusiast” of this particular coloring solution.
The differences between henna and dyeing earths
Are all dyeing earths the same? “Not exactly. Besides that each releases a specific color on the hair, alongside the colored ones there are also two passe-partout dyeing herbs: the emollient, also called neutral, is a land that does not dye but performs a curative and polishing action on the hair; the walnut husk, also colorless, is used instead to “cut” the rendering of a shade so that it does not appear too strong on the hair».
How dyeing earths are used
“Henna and all the other herbs they look like a real earth, a dry clay that dissolves in water. They are obtained by drying and applied to the hair they deposit the color» continues the expert.
“They need hot water to activateat least at 60° so as to release all the potential of the colour, and of a any acidifier such as oil, vinegar or plain yogurt which allows it to settle better on the stem: the acid pH of these ingredients acts by fortifying the color by enclosing it between the scales of the stem» explains Incamicia.
After applying the bronzer to the hair, leave it on for a maximum of 45 minutes. Both before and after application, the hair must be perfectly cleansed, a fundamental step after dyeing to let the nuance fade.
The pluses? The dyeing earths not only color but take care of the hair: if in fact the hair and skin are oily, the herbs act by drying the excess sebum, if instead the hair is dull the earth gives great brightness while if the structure of the stem is fine it is thickened thanks to the colored sheath that builds around it.
Do-it-yourself dyeing lands and home maintenance
Although it takes great dexterity, the dyeing earths can also be used alone at home: «Unlike the colors, in fact, with herbs there is no risk of damaging the hair or burning it».
Furthermore maintenance is easy: the color fades with each wash, which is why it should be refreshed every month and a half at the most. To maintain it, shampoo and conditioner are used that color slightly so as to revive the tone.
How to use them on white hair
These herbs are also an ideal solution to cover gray hair offering many benefitsfor example they do not create the detachment of regrowth: «Acting tone-on-tone and working on the overlays more or less monthly, the dyeing herbs do not cover the white threads 100% as the dye does but mask them, in a nuanced way. Furthermore, compared to the chemical dye, which darkens or lightens the hair, earths act only by emphasizing the natural color».
…And if you don’t like the result? How to do
It may happen that you don’t like the color: what to do in this case? “You choose one alkaline shampoo which opens the scales of the hair: working on the outer cortex it eliminates the color until it is completely discharged. Be careful though: the more the shade has stratified and the more difficult it will be to eliminate, so it takes time».
The contraindications
Are there any contraindications? “Only two. The first week after applying an herb, my hair is slightly drier because the product hasn’t fully drained yet. Furthermore it is not a technique suitable for those who do water sports or work in the water: chlorine, saltiness, sun eliminate the result» concludes the expert.
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