Talents of Pitti Uomo 104

As is well known, the new season begins with the Pitti Uomo in Florence. In addition to menswear veterans and traditional clothing suppliers, the men’s fashion fair also offers young brands their own area – S|Style.

The area, which is supported by the Material Innovation Lab of the Italian luxury goods group Kering, presents young talents for whom innovation and sustainability play a major role. FashionUnited features four of these brands.

Jeanne Friot

Jeanne Friot was founded by the eponymous designer in 2020 during the pandemic. The Parisian studied at the French fashion school Institut Français de la Mode and then worked for brands such as Balenciaga, APC and Kitsune.

For her own brand, Friot works with dead stocks and upcycling. The pieces are made in her own workshop and at another production facility in France on request. The designer’s creations are available through her own online shop and from various retailers. The brand describes itself as an “inclusive brand” that creates pieces that can appeal to customers regardless of gender, size or style.

The final Fall 23 collection, Red Warriors, is inspired by the desire to say no. An anti-Fast skinhead movement – ​​the Red Warriors – that was active in Paris from the mid-1980s provided the stimulus for this. In Jeanne Friot’s collection, the color red plays a major role, bringing different people and styles together, as it does in our society. Punky elements such as tartan and leather straps meet a sporty look with a tracksuit.

Steven Passaro

Designer Steven Passaro is also at home in Paris. However, he studied at the London College of Fashion, where he graduated in 2018 with a Master of Arts in menswear. He also presented his first collection for FW19 in the British capital at London Fashion Week. Since January 2022, he has presented his collections in Paris as part of the official fashion week calendar.

Passaro sees his fashion as “the ultimate encouragement for self-discovery.” His timeless creations are designed to promote awareness of body, mind and soul. He relies on gender-neutral designs and 3D cutting techniques.

The collections are made in France and Portugal with fabrics from European suppliers. Passaro is also collaborating with Nona Source, a platform for selling off-stock fabrics from LVMH couture houses. Materials include wool, cotton and silk.

Isnurh

“Innovative, sustainable and timeless” is how the Danish label Isnurh would describe itself in three words. In 2016 Kasper Juhl Todbjerg and Oliver Abrenica launched the brand with “a clear vision and dedication to creating detailed designs”. This is intended to bridge the gap between contemporary and luxury.

The brand’s shirts stand out from the collections, which range between modern streetwear, Danish casualness and sporty elegance. Isnurh relies on simple basics as well as colorful prints and prints.

Isnurh is active with more than 26 retail partners in eight markets. For the SS24 season, the brand is working with new agencies to increase its presence in the markets.

Oloo Concept

Olooh was founded in 2018 by Kader Diaby, a photographer from Ivory Coast. The main inspiration for the label comes from the Malinké culture – a people from the Ivory Coast who are dressed in loose-fitting pieces in earthy tones. Diaby also relies on a casual but equally elegant silhouette. He brings the cultural approach into the present day and combines it with influences from around the world, which the designer has collected on his travels.

On Diaby’s artistic journey, in addition to a strong cultural input, he also relies on values ​​that are relevant across society – better production and education, including communication and value.

Olooh is not yet active on the European market. However, this should change with participation in Pitti Uomo, Diaby explains to FashionUnited.