Over 80 brands showcased at New York Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 23 season, which ran through Wednesday. Among the different looks that were shown, some stood out as particularly trend-worthy. A throwback to the late twentieth century and the beginning of the twenty-first century is still palpable.
Tiny crop tops over baggy pants were a signature look of the era, which has been picked up by several fashion houses this season. The merging of different materials into a collage look also dates back to the 1990s and is particularly evident in the work of Xuly.Bet. In addition, cut-outs that revealed the underwear were seen on many catwalks.
Modern grunge
M65 Studio’s spring-summer ’23 collection was titled ‘America Lost and Found’ and explored the American mentality. Look 4 consisted of a logo t-shirt with a cream embroidered sheer layer over a purple mini skirt. Maryam Nassir Zadeh paired a light blue slip top and light green mini skirt over pink one leg chiffon pants.
Italian brand Marni, designed by Francesco Risso, chose to show in New York this season. Look 51 featured a striped space dyed sweater with a knit tie at the waist paired with fabric trim over wide-leg jeans and a painted overlay design.
Clean craftsmanship
Jonathan Simkhai’s collection was “inspired by the ocean and what lives in it,” and featured a similar aesthetic with shell-like motifs reinterpreted with crochet and beading. The Proenza Schouler label presented a range of crocheted one-piece suits. For Look 2, worn by Kendall Jenner, the duo paired a white fringed hem openwork skirt with white panties and a matching fringed bra.
Bronx and Banco presented the ‘Burnt by the Sun’ collection, which featured fringes, mesh, chainmail and openwork fabrics. Look 20 featured an intricately constructed dress with a diamond-shaped braid between rows of braided loops.
The Y2K trend
Fashion creators continue to be inspired by the Y2K looks of the late 90’s and early 2000’s. Narrow-cut tops with low-slung, wide pants were the dominant silhouette. Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour has made baggy cargo pants her signature. Several variants were seen in her SS23 collection. Look 25 consisted of purple cargo pants embellished with a double belt and paired with a multicolored knit top with metal cuffs.
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta showed a collection full of oversized silhouettes. Look 1 by Sarah Boursin featured wide-leg terry pants with a pleated front, drawstring waist and fringe trimmings paired with a metal halterneck bodice.
Joseph Altuzarra’s collection encompassed silhouettes ranging from body-hugging knits and layered looks to intricately embellished ponchos and oversized suits. For Look 39, the designer featured wide-leg pants that were pleated at the front and buttoned at the hem. He also combined a vest with silver metal elements.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ