Valentino combines ’80s and baroque splendor as he returns to Rome

Italian fashion house Valentino returned to its roots on Thursday. Two months after the death of founder Valentino Garavani, it presented a 1980s-inspired fashion show in one of Rome’s most spectacular locations.

Around 700 people, including Hollywood star Gwyneth Paltrow, were invited to the show. It took place in the galleries of the Palazzo Barberini. The Baroque palace now houses masterpieces by Caravaggio, Raphael and many others.

Valentino is known for dressing some of the most glamorous women in the world. The fashion house usually presents its collections in Paris, although it was founded in the Italian capital in 1960.

However, creative director Alessandro Michele decided to return to the Eternal City for his Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection. It was the first ready-to-wear collection since the founder’s death. He died on January 19th at the age of 93.

The models walked on artificial turf under the spectacular ceiling fresco ‘The Triumph of Divine Providence’ by Pietro da Cortona. They wore outfits that were heavily inspired by the 1980s.

The looks featured emphasized shoulders, narrow waists and miniskirts. It was paired with sparkling oversized jewelry, including giant beads and chunky pendants.

Michele, who took over in 2024, said that in the late 1980s and 1990s, Valentino was “still working like crazy, creating beauty with his hands.”

It was a time of “positivity” and “empowerment,” he told reporters backstage. Women in particular gained more control over their bodies back then.

By working with folds and draping fabrics around the body, Valentino “created the idea of ​​a goddess… and placed women at the center of the world.”

The final dress from Michele’s collection on Thursday was a real eye-catcher. The long-sleeved dress with a plunging back was presented in the house’s signature red. “Red is very difficult to manage,” Michele admitted, but said it was crucial to the brand.

Perfect world

The models reached the galleries via Francesco Borromini’s spiral staircase. It is one of two staircases in the palazzo; the other is a square design by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

They were commissioned at the same time and reflect the Palazzo’s ability to “let opposing forces coexist without canceling each other out,” Michele said in the show notes.

In this sense, the collection, titled ‘Interference’ (Disorders), showed contrasts between “code and deviation, lightness and gravity,” he wrote.

Valentino, which dressed stars such as Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Diana and Julia Roberts, became synonymous with glamor and beauty.

Speaking to reporters, Michele said the designer created things that were “perfect” but “we don’t live in that perfect world anymore.” “I do it my way because I am the disorder,” he said.

Very important customers

The invitation-only black-tie show was a lavish event. Many guests were then invited to dinner. They were taken to the venues in official vehicles.

It was broadcast live on Valentino’s social media channels as well as on large screens in Rome, Milan and Naples – but above all, the house wanted to impress those in the room.

Of the estimated 700 invited guests, 200 were journalists and VIPs. The rest were VICs – very important customers, as a Valentino insider revealed.

Like other fashion houses, Valentino struggles with the many challenges of the luxury industry. These include slowing demand, inflation and geopolitical uncertainty.

Michele helped transform Gucci during his seven years there, and Valentino hopes he will do the same for them.

The label is 70 percent owned by the Qatari investment fund Mayhoola, while the French luxury group Kering holds a 30 percent stake.