AND The false myth that the retinol contained in cosmetics is an exfoliant is widespread. This is because, during its use, you may notice the appearance of accentuated dryness and cuticles that detach from the skin, “proof” that the active ingredient is having an effect. What’s correct? Word to an expert.
Retinol in cosmetics: how it works
Retinol is a molecule belonging to the retinoid family, which also includes retinal (or retinaldehyde) and retinoic acid. «They are natural or synthetic molecules that derive from vitamin A. They play very important roles in the organism because they stimulate its growth and regulate the differentiation of tissues, for example», explains Abdessamad Benalla, specialist in intimate aesthetic medicine and surgery, clinical sexology and andrology.
«The retinol contained in cosmetic formulas, in particular. participates in cellular regeneration, because it has a composition capable of reaching the superficial papillary dermis, stimulating fibroblasts to secrete collagen and hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, it improves the structure of the skin and counteracts skin laxity, unifies the tone and fights hyperpigmentation, making the complexion luminous.”
«Cosmetic retinol also has a keratin-regulating and sebum-regulating action, and is an effective antibacterial, for example, to improve the condition of the epidermis suffering from acne».
Retinol does not exfoliate
Cosmetic retinol promotes skin regeneration, provided it is used correctly. «The main problem is linked to its incorrect use, which can alter the functioning of the sebaceous glands and, more generally, affect the skin barrier, leading to dryness, inflammation and irritation».
«The use of excessive quantities of creams with retinol can alter the functioning of the sebaceous glands and, more generally, damage the skin barrier, causing skin discomfort that manifests itself with particularly dry and red skin, causing skin flaking that is not due to an exfoliating process, even if you notice the detachment of cuticles», explains the expert.
«I remember that the amount of the tip of a teaspoon is sufficient for a complete application on the entire face».
The specialist specifies that this is never permanent damage: “If the use of retinol is suspended or reduced, sebum production usually returns to normal levels once the skin barrier has recomposed.”
It takes a period of getting used to for the skin
Retinol cream requires a retinization period, that is, guided and progressive use that allows the skin to adapt.
«It is advisable to start gradually. The first week, it is recommended to use it 2-3 evenings (one yes, two no), the second week you can use it every other evening, and the third week, if your skin tolerates it well, you can switch to daily evening use. During the day, it is always important to use a cosmetic treatment with a sunscreen with a high SPF”
When retinol is needed, when not
The expert would like to make two clarifications. «Retinol is a biological strategy, it stimulates collagen and accelerates cell renewal, but it should not be used as a hydrating treatment, it should also be used in large doses to soften the skin. Its function is not to rejuvenate, but triggers a process that helps the skin maintain elasticity. But only when there is this need.”
«The use of cream with retinol is truly effective only if the skin really needs it. In fact, it works less on young skin, which is inherently toned and elastic. In these cases this molecule not only proves to be ineffective but can be harmful to the skin.”
It is also wrong to insert a retinol cream without consulting a specialist. «The dermatologist and the aesthetic doctor are the only ones who can evaluate whether the skin really needs this type of active ingredient. Furthermore, only they can suggest how to include it in your beauty routine”, underlines the expert. «I remember that the specialist uses special instruments such as the ultrasound to determine the real needs of the skin».
