Industry experts from all over the world are currently gathering again in Florence for the Pitti Uomo fashion trade fair. Among the numerous international participants, the Japanese brand Shinyakozuka will present a special catwalk show. She appears alongside Sohsiotsuki, last year’s LVMH Prize winner, and Headmayer. This year’s Pitti Uomo offers an excellent opportunity to shine a spotlight on a new generation of Japanese designers.

Shinyakozuka’s individuality lies in the ambiguity of its brand concept. Many people know the experience that certain scents or pieces of music bring back memories. Shinyakozuka, on the other hand, attempts to reproduce memories not through the sense of smell or hearing, but visually through fashion.

The brand is characterized by designs that are reminiscent of a boy’s dream world. They evoke associations with picture books like “The Little Prince” or fantasy films. The brand concept is “picturesque scenery”, which can be translated as “picturesque scenes”. These vague images and emotions are translated into silhouettes, material properties and generous proportions and realized as clothing.

Fashion as part of the backdrop

Designer Shinya Kozuka graduated from London’s renowned Central Saint Martins in 2013 as one of the best in his class. In 2015, he founded his brand Shinyakozuka. The brand presents collections inspired by landscapes and clothing from his time in London, as well as the designer’s own drawings.

Kozuka’s collections differ from common themes in the fashion scene. They are not an avant-garde antithesis to society or a homage to certain cultures. In an interview with fashion and culture media Qui, Kozuka explained: “I don’t have a specific message that I want to convey through clothing. My starting point is more the question: ‘Wouldn’t it be wonderful if there were clothes like this in this landscape?'”

He views clothing as “an element in a remembered scene.” He places more emphasis on the atmosphere and the overall look of the collection than on details. He wants to give the viewer room for their own interpretations.

Shinyakozuka Fall/Winter 2024, ready-to-wear. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Nevertheless, Shinyakozuka’s collections also reflect the designer’s imagination and experiences. The brand’s 10th anniversary Fall/Winter 2024 collection was based on a picture book that Kozuka created himself while he was a student. The collection follows the story of a protagonist who knows no colors and gradually becomes fascinated by them. Accordingly, the garments were gradually presented from black and white to colorful.

The theme “Good morning, I wish I could fly, never mind” was chosen for the Fall/Winter 2025 collection. The story of a penguin who dreams of being able to fly was staged on the catwalk.

A decisive factor in the brand’s growing awareness was the collaboration with the US company Dickies, which has been ongoing since the spring/summer 2021 collection. Dickies’ classic work jackets and trousers are crafted from durable T/C twill and reinterpreted in a signature Shinyakozuka oversized design.

Shinyakozuka Spring Summer 2024
Shinyakozuka Spring/Summer 2024. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Affinity to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo is one of the largest fashion fairs in Italy. Last June, it attracted a total of 15,000 industry representatives, including buyers from over 100 countries and five continents.

Kozuka’s brand was selected for the Future Maschile section, one of the event’s four curated sections. “Future Maschile” showcases the work of designers who create innovative menswear, often featuring a unique structural aesthetic. In contrast to the often simple and minimalist designs of other brands, Kozuka’s imaginative designs will particularly stand out at the trade fair.

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In contrast to the imaginative atmosphere of the fashion shows, the brand’s individual products are often functional and reminiscent of workwear.

The brand’s signature collection is a line of wide “baggy” pants available in a variety of silhouettes. The elastic and comfortable pants cost between 30,000 and 50,000 Japanese yen (around 180 to 300 euros). The popular items from the collaboration with Dickies, such as jackets and pants, cost around 30,000 Japanese yen (around 180 euros). The pieces presented at Pitti Uomo from the collaboration with the Japanese brand Tsuchiya Kaban cost between 80,000 and 130,000 Japanese yen (around 480 to 780 euros).

Some of the brand’s tops and jackets use a unique sizing system. The “Her” size describes a slightly smaller fit, as if a friend were wearing it. “My” is a standard men’s size and “His” is an oversized fit, like you’re wearing a friend’s item.

The items can be ordered internationally via the official online shop as well as via platforms such as Ebay and Grailed. In Japan, the products are available in the flagship store in Omotesando and in the concept store Studious. There is also a dedicated area for Shinyakozuka at Hankyu Men’s Tokyo in the Garage D. Edit area, which showcases national and international men’s fashion brands. The shop design reflects the imaginative world of the brand and creates a special shopping experience.

This article was created using digital tools translated.


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