Shein opens at BHV Marais in Paris

Out of “curiosity” or because it is “cheaper,” the first customers crowded in front of the Paris department store BHV on Wednesday before it opened at 1 p.m. The opening of the Shein store took place despite the controversy surrounding the Asian giant’s practices.

“My husband doesn’t know I’m here, we came secretly.” Marie stood under the black and white banners with the five letters of the Asian brand. The 43-year-old Parisian cleaner thought the Shein store would open at 10 a.m.

She says she comes to BHV “regularly” and was “attracted” to Shein “because it’s cheaper.”

At around 10:30 a.m., just over 60 people lined up at the department store’s main entrance. There, opposite the Paris City Hall, customers had to pick up a ticket. This ticket grants access to the store on the sixth floor. It will be the fast fashion brand’s first permanent, physical store in the world.

Police officers were on site to ensure security. At the same time, an action by the children’s rights organization Mouv’enfants took place on Wednesday morning. Signs reading “BHV, your shop window must not hide the shame” were held up.

Parisian politicians also commented publicly. The Paris municipality declared that it was at war with Shein.

‘Like everyone else’

Diarra Younouss, a 19-year-old event management student, came from the 13th arrondissement. He was here with his “entire” class out of “curiosity”. “That’s important, it’s a global opening. It’s the first time that a purely online provider is entering brick-and-mortar retail, which is really interesting.” Since he also came early, he ultimately didn’t wait until the opening: “Don’t feel like waiting.”

Others will wait and shop, despite the controversy surrounding Shein. The company is regularly accused by environmental and human rights organizations. They condemn the manufacturing conditions, the transport of the products and the working conditions of the subcontractors.

In light of these controversies and the recent judicial investigation into the sale of sex dolls modeled after children, customers often point to purchasing power.

“It’s true that you should buy French products, but it’s expensive and salaries don’t increase. We’re not rich,” explains Marie.

Antoinette, a 79-year-old pensioner from Paris, is one of the first customers in line. She has never ordered from Shein. The doll controversy? “I’m sure that exists somewhere else,” she regrets.

“I want to start buying my Christmas presents. I saw that Shein is opening and I’m going to look around the rest of BHV too,” she says. There was a special promotion on Wednesday: every purchase at Shein entitled you to a voucher of the same value, which could be redeemed at the rest of the BHV.

In her opinion, BHV, which was acquired by Frédéric Merlin’s Société des Grands Magasins (SGM) in 2023, has deteriorated in recent years. “Prices have risen at all levels, things are no longer as good, you can find less.”

Several brands have left BHV. Reasons for this included disagreements with the SGM and unpaid bills, as in the case of Le Slip Français. Others, like the fashion house Agnès B. on Tuesday, reacting to the partnership with Shein.

Only a few customers shop inside the BHV. Mila Moukbeul, a 61-year-old self-employed woman from Paris, doesn’t like Shein. “But maybe I’ll stop by out of curiosity like everyone else.”