Harrods Buyer: Paris Fashion Week ready to capture the imagination of customers worldwide

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, which ran from September 29th to October 7th, was marked by debuts at Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga. According to Simon Longland, director of buying for fashion at British luxury department store Harrods, it has been a season of “extraordinary new beginnings”.

Longland told FashionUnited via email: “Paris offered a fashion week like no other. With so many debuts and second collections, we experienced an extraordinary new beginning. This brought out the best in some of the most talented designers in the industry.”

“There was a renewed sense of creativity and purpose throughout the week. I believe this will resonate particularly strongly in the coming months. Nowhere was this more evident than in the accessories categories. These appeared invigorated and ready to capture the imagination of customers worldwide.”

When asked about his favorite collections, Longland named Tom Ford, Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, The Row, Céline, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior. Each collection “stayed true to its heritage while offering a fresh perspective, which will ensure it resonates with both industry insiders and our customers at Harrods.”

Matthieu Blazy at Chanel impresses Harrods buyer Simon Longland

The favorite debut was that of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel. Longland said Blazy delivered an “outstanding” collection that struck “the perfect balance between respect for the house’s storied codes and a clear, forward-thinking vision.” This set “a powerful tone” and marked an “exciting new chapter for Chanel.”

Blazy’s debut collection for French fashion house Chanel was one of the most anticipated shows of the Paris Fashion Week season. The elegant and playful collection was unveiled at the Grand Palais, illuminated by a solar system. Longland added that this felt “almost like a Big Bang: the beginning of something new.”

“Blazy delivered a debut that was nothing short of a masterpiece,” said Longland. “He showed complete respect for the house, its codes and its ateliers. At the same time, he took the look and feel of Chanel into a new chapter.”

“His modernization was both intelligent and beautiful. It was rooted in Coco’s own starting point – the codes and techniques of menswear. Nowhere was this more evident than in the immaculate shirts. They were reminiscent of the shirts Coco herself wore and brought a lightness and purity not seen in recent collections.”

“With this collection, Blazy has achieved something almost impossible: he has created a vision that will attract a legion of new admirers. At the same time, it remains deeply meaningful to Chanel’s loyal clientele. A new beginning, perfectly orchestrated and brilliantly executed.”

Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior during Paris Fashion Week

Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson received a standing ovation for his debut womenswear collection for Dior, staged in the Tuileries Garden. The collection was rich in references to Dior’s heritage, from bows to hydrangeas. She also showcased modern takes on the luxury fashion house’s iconic bar jacket, as well as evening-ready dresses.

Dior stated in the show notes that “change is inevitable,” and Longland adds that Anderson’s debut represented “a revolution rather than an evolution.”

“The show was a collection of contrasts – couture versus everyday casual, femininity versus androgyny, veiled versus transparent,” Longland explained. “The collection was striking in its modernity, youthful energy and elegant lightness. It reinterpreted Dior’s most iconic codes through Anderson’s unique lens.”

“His update of the bar jacket and skirt will no doubt be on countless wish lists. It sets the tone for a bold new chapter at Dior.”

Pierpaolo Piccioli presents his vision for Balenciaga

A new chapter also began for Balenciaga this season. Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his first collection for the storied fashion house after his long stint as creative director at Valentino. With so many debuts this season, you might think it would be hard to stand out. But Piccioli had royal support in the front row: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, made a surprise appearance at PFW to support her friend.

Commenting on his debut, Longland said Piccioli was “extraordinary” and presented a collection that “balanced reverence and renewal with rare precision.” He explored the archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s fashion house. At the same time, his “reinterpretation of signatures – from sculptural silhouettes to something as elemental as the T-shirt – demonstrated a couture-level flair.”

“The collection was both powerful and poetic: dresses of couture stature juxtaposed with immaculate leather and denim. This demonstrated his ability to elevate every facet of the wardrobe,” Longland added. “This was not only a beautiful collection, but also a confident new direction for the house. It feels completely authentic to the heritage while opening an exciting new chapter. It was everything we could have hoped for from a designer of his caliber.”

Best show format at PFW SS26

The PFW has long been known for its elaborate catwalk productions. This season, Longland said he was most impressed by Céline, Saint Laurent and Chanel.

“Format and location played a crucial role in the experience of the collections this season. Céline’s show at the Parc de Saint-Cloud created a rare moment of calm and intimacy. It immersed us in nature in the middle of an intense week,” said Longland. “Saint Laurent, staged in front of the night-lit Eiffel Tower, offered pure theatricality. Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into a galaxy and offered a spectacle as ambitious as the collection itself.”

PFW SS26 trends: elegance, feathers, elevated basics and tailoring

Longland notes a “return to elegance” in the PFW SS26 trends. Many designers referenced the sophisticated silhouettes of the 1920s and 1950s. Designers like Balenciaga, The Row, Givenchy and Chanel explored this “through cut, proportion and fabric, creating collections that felt timeless yet relevant.”

A certain sensuality also ran through the collections. She expressed herself through “lingerie-inspired details” such as lace trims, slip dresses and bra tops. These were, says Longland, “reinterpreted with couture-level craftsmanship.”

Decorative volume was clearly visible, with “feathers, fringe and shaggy textures adding movement and drama.” At the same time, the collections were “anchored by basics such as shirts and T-shirts”. These were cleverly juxtaposed with more opulent pieces to create a dialogue between high and low.

Tailoring remained essential, with “sharply tailored black and white jackets forming the backbone of many collections.” At the same time, “statement sleeves, sculptural skirts and eye-catching color concepts broke the dominance of monochrome and brought vibrancy to the season.”

Longland also notes that accessories were very much the focus this season. Silk scarves and statement belts provided “the finishing touches, highlighting how details complete the narrative of a look.”