Continuity and inheritance – these two terms best describe the new path that the Spanish brand Loewe has taken. This is followed by Jonathan Anderson and the entry of the duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez as the new creative director: inside of the fashion brand.
It is a new chapter in the almost 200-year history of the house. The North Americans: this Friday made their debut with the presentation of their first collection during the Paris fashion week. McCollough and Hernandez made it onto the way, which Anderson had taken in September 2013 since he took over the creative direction of Loewe in September 2013.
Particularly noteworthy is the subtlety and the skill with which McCollough and Hernandez build on the work of Anderson. Today’s collection in Paris showed that the choice of North American creatives as successors: inside was a convincing decision. Loewe had developed an independent, strong visual language in recent years, which met with great interest in loyal followers: inside the brand.
There was concern that this highlight could be lost after the change in the creative management. But today it became clear that McCollough and Hernandez respect and continue the style and profile of the brand of the past few years.
In fact, it is difficult to find a piece that could not have been designed among Anderson, even though it shows the subtle peculiarities of the new creatives. So it is a clear aesthetic continuity. It can be expected that McCollough and Hernandez gradually develop season after season and enrich Loewe’s visual language with their own sensitivity.
“Starting at Loewe means taking over codes that have been forged in over 180 years. As a new creative director: Inside the house, it is her “task to advance this spirit and to interpret it through our personal vision”.
The creative ones also wondered how craftsmanship can be redefined today how far the expression of the handmade can be driven before even the traces of its creation disappear, and what is meant to be Spanish in 2025 when you freed yourself from the burden of history, but nevertheless meet it with respect.
In response to the doubts they had when taking Loewe, they explained that creativity was the only possible way for them to find answers. Creativity is therefore the tool to tackle these questions with strict, courage, courage and a coherent personal vision. At the same time, it must remain intimate, but may be associated with a broader cultural story. With Loewe, they would have to research and experiment the freedom, supported by a unique culture of creation and materiality, which is expressed expressively, vital and deep with art and culture.
Light, color and sensuality
This debut collection is a manifesto and is intended to summarize all the principles that McCollough and Hernandez want to develop as the new creative director: inside of Loewe. In the first place, the Yellow Panel with Red Curve (1989) by the American artist Ellsworth Kelly comes first.
The two creative emphasized that this work summarizes all the qualities with which they identify Loewe and that they want to highlight them as their most distinctive codes. This includes the flow ability and sensuality of the lines, the play of light and materiality in the silhouettes and the intensity of the color. These intentions became particularly clear in the opening look of the show – it was a perfect reinterpretation of Kelly’s work.
Based on this color intensity, the collection presents itself in a CMYK-inspired color palette, comparable to the cartridges of a printer. Building on this, the palette extends to more magical tones such as mint green, coral orange or a striking “shocking pink”.
The variety of silhouettes of the collection is based on these colors and the floral pattern, which was already seen in earlier seasons. McCollough and Hernandez reinterpret some of the most striking patterns from the Anderson era.
Particularly noteworthy are the new versions of the towel dresses, the baby doll dresses and the breastplate dresses. These are not only reinterpreted, but also presented as sculptural jackets. The clothing from different types of leather, the characteristic material of the brand, which is again in focus in this collection is striking.
Silhouettes and materials from streetwear and sports fashion also play a central role. McCollough and Hernandez re -adapt this aesthetics and adapt it. This can be seen in jeans, polo shirts, parkas, anoraks and tank tops, which together with particularly striking deconstructed clothes and accessories such as the new bag ‘Amazona 180’ key elements of the collection.
“The collection uses a visual language with clear, sometimes sculptural shapes and an elementary palette. It is inspired by archetypes of the sports swear and is often expressed by leather trade,” explain McCollough and Hernandez. “These forms are brought to life with a sensuality and zeal that reinvent Loewe’s legacy.”
This article was used with digital tools translated.
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