Brands have to make repaired shoes more attractive

The topic of sustainability in fashion also affects the shoes area, especially sneakers. These have now become an integral part of collections of every price range and target group and are socially acceptable for almost every occasion.

Sustainable, partly sustainable, recyclable or partially recyclable: sneakers, the modern version of the former tennis, gymnastics or leisure shoes, are the focus of experimental projects and material research from pioneering companies. But what about the sustainability of sneakers? Fashionunited spoke to Saverio Lapini, co -founder and CEO of Ollum GmbH, an Italian consulting company that specializes in company sustainability and accompanies companies on their way to reducing environmental pollution.

How does sneaker production fit into the sustainability picture?

It is one of the most interesting segments. Synthetic materials are traditionally used here, be it rubber or polyester. Many companies now switch to natural materials for sustainability. Examples of this are hemp fibers and alternatives to conventional plastics that are compostable, recyclable and bio -based.

So is there a change in the production approach?

Yes, even if natural materials are not always suitable for this type of application. Sports shoes must be resistant and have certain mechanical properties. Natural materials are used to produce bio -based rubber. They then go through processes that are identical to those of synthetic materials. The difference lies in the vegetable starting fiber. In short: the material changes, but the steps to produce the rubber remain the same, even if the origin is different. This enables companies to continue using their existing machines for “traditional production”.

But does this system work from an ecological point of view?

Yes, in this way sneakers can be produced with about a third less environmental pollution as conventional shoes. However, there are two problems.

Which are they?

First, as already mentioned, the materials do not have the same properties and qualities as “traditional” materials and can therefore have a shorter lifespan. The environmental impact of a shoe is reduced, but nothing is done to extend its lifespan. The problem is that the company doesn’t do much to change the rules of the game.

Which way is the right one?

The first part of the process in which natural materials are used is in the right direction. The next steps are to work on the durability of the shoes and the after-sales service. There are users: inside who would be ready to have their sneakers repaired, but the brands do not offer such service services. You may have a hole on the big toe, but the shoe is still intact. Of course you can’t walk around with a hole in the upper. However, if there were the possibility of adequately repairing the worn area, the sneaker could be worn for a long time.

In this case, the customer’s wish also plays a role for a new look, right?

The brands also bear responsibility. You should make the “repaired” attractive again. If a patched piece of clothing is presented on a fashion show and the cool becomes, then another step is taken in the right direction.

Let’s talk about the prices: more sustainable accessories are often more expensive, and this affects consumers’ purchase decisions: inside.

The natural materials from which sustainable sneakers are made are usually more expensive. This is because there are no scale effects. The manufacturers, which are mainly based in Italy, in the region, or in Southeast Asia, still occupy a niche and do not suffer from the “price war”, the other providers: internal concerns. However, I would like to add that the material costs make up about 20 percent of the final price of the sneakers.

Could the purchase of larger quantities to produce only sustainable sneakers to achieve scale effects?

Exactly. The reality looks like many companies offer only a sustainable model or a sustainable line.

Why do you think that is the case?

The vision of sustainability is often missing. There is a lack of culture and competence. Many well -trained young people start with the brands and have great expectations. But if you then find that there is a lack of long -term vision, unfortunately you switch to other companies.