The spring/summer season 2026 traditionally starts with the Pitti Uomo. But while the Florentine Mass is dedicated to the menswear, the view of Speaking- The Concept Store is aimed at women- and men’s fashion from the start of the season.
For over 40 years, the concept store with locations in Cologne, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Berlin as well as Rottach-Egern and on Lake Tegernsee has been one of the stylish addresses in the German luxury fashion trade. But how does the current changes in luxury fashion meet – and what values, strategies and curatorial decisions are crucial today to meet the expectations of increasingly conscious and quality -oriented customers?
Co-Founder & Co-CEO Klaus Ritzenhöfer and Henning Korb, Managing Partner, who are responsible for the purchase of the men’s and women’s collections, took the time at the start of the season to give fashionunited insights into upcoming trends and understanding contemporary luxury.
With what feeling did you start in the SS26 season?
With a mixture of curiosity and responsibility. The spring/summer season 2026 feels like a turning point-both creatively and commercially.
How do the seasonal preparations do at speaker?
Preparations start early. We analyze sales data, observe global trends, speak to our teams in the stores and use our network of designers: inside and industry insiders: inside.
A holistic approach is important to us: we think in looks, in stories – and above all we always have our customers in mind, their needs and their occasions.
How would you characterize the APROPOS customers-and has it changed over time?
Our customers are alterless, fashion -savvy, very informed and quality -conscious. The sense of materials, processing and origin has increased. At the same time, we observe a certain price sensitivity-but only if the price-performance ratio is not correct.
Do regional differences in stores and the customers located there also play a role in the range planning?
Definitely. Each location has its own DNA. In Hamburg, different brands and designs work than in Cologne/Düsseldorf or at Tegernsee or even in Berlin.
We hear very well what customers want: on the inside – and adapt the order to it. However, the curation always stays in the Speaker Spirit.
Do teaching and knowledge from the pre -season flow into the current round of order?
Yes, of course. Spring/Summer 2025 was a difficult season, emotionally charged products worked better than purely “reasonable”. Colors, fabrics, craft – these components play an overriding role. We therefore go to depth more specifically instead of width.
What do you look forward to personally in the coming order season- both in women and men’s fashion?
On the return of emotion. The women’s fashion becomes more playful again, feminine without losing strength, such as Chloé. In men’s fashion we see an exciting resolution of classic silhouettes – the game with volume, texture and elegance is really fun. We think of Tom Ford.
Are there brands or topics that are currently particularly well received by your customers?
Celine is still very popular with the women, as well as The Row and Phoebe Philo. For men, we observe increasing interest in products with a noticeable added value – be it in processing or in storytelling.
Which overarching currents do you currently observe in fashion- and how do you influence this women’s and men’s fashion alike?
There is a certain romanticization-gentle colors, soft cuts, transparent fabrics. At the same time, Tailoring comes to the center again. Womenswear and menswear are visually approaching a piece without mixing – the language is similar, but the form of expression remains differentiated.
Nevertheless, it is striking that after a phase of flowing gender limits, fashion seems to be clearer again. How do you classify this development?
It is not a return to old patterns, but rather a reinterpretation. Female is not equally weak, masculine is not equally hard. Our clientele deliberately plays with codes. The separation offers new scope for clear fashion statements – without excluding the game with gender.
Apart from the big names: Are there labels or concepts that swim against the mainstream but still earn attention?
Yes – labels like Rossi or Extreme Cashmere provide a different perspective on luxury. They are not loud, but incredibly strong in the statement.
Do you currently also see opportunities for smaller or aspiring labels to become part of the Speaking portfolio?
Absolutely – our customers love discoveries. If the product is strong and the story behind it, we also give young labels a stage, such as the German sneaker brand thesing.
We are very open, but only if the quality can keep up in the long term with the claim of Speaking.
What are the decisive factors for you when it comes to recording new brands?
Consistence on the brand world of speaking, quality of the collection, storytelling, delivery safety, calculation and also the question: Does the label have the potential to be a loyal partner over several seasons?
With a view to the overall picture: How do you rate the current development in the luxury industry – and what does that mean forpropos?
Luxury is getting quieter again – but no less luxurious. It has to be understatement, for substance instead of just status and high prices, because we believe in sustainable luxury, consistency and character – not in short -term hypes.
Nor do we believe that artificially produced queues would be a long -term success model for speaking due to artificially obtained lack of goods.
What topics and values are currently at the top of the agenda of the luxury segment?
Above all, “Value for Money” as well as craftsmanship, authenticity and individuality. Customers: inside want to know where a product comes from, who did it, what it is. The topic “Quiet Luxury” is still very present.
And finally: What do you want – both for Speaking and for the industry as a whole – this season?
Courage to vision. Less compromises, more clarity. For the industry, we would like more focus on content and attitude instead of staging and mainstream. For speaking, this means that we continue to have the right sense of what really touches people – fashionable and emotionally.
This interview was led in writing.