It is said that a good pair of shoes not only wears us, but also determines our path. Vagabond Shoemakers takes a path that is equally shaped by tradition, craftsmanship and innovation. Known for the seamless fusion of Scandinavian minimalism and everyday functionality, the Swedish shoe label under the creative direction of Maria Billson Olander bravely into the future. “We are a fashion brand, we are shoemakers: inside and we are sustainable,” she says. “This triangle defines our DNA.”
In conversation with fashionunited, Olander illuminates her career, outlines the strategic direction of Vagabond and explains how the brand drives innovations in the areas of materials, design and responsible production without losing sight of its core identity.
Career based on craftsmanship and creativity
Olander’s professional career seems almost prescribed. Growing up in a Swedish region that was once known for its flowering knitting industry, her fascination for textiles and craft began early on. “I worked in knitwear factories during the school holidays. It fascinated me to watch the designer: to watch at work inside,” she recalls. After studying fashion and knitting technology, she started her first job as a design assistant from a leather jacket manufacturer, where she gained practical experience with high-quality materials.
In 1999 she came to Vagabond – a step she describes as the finding of her professional home. “The aesthetics of the design appealed to me immediately, and I’ve been here since then,” she says. Today, as a creative director, she is not only responsible for the design, but also for marketing and sales strategy. “It is a cross -functional process. We always think together: Is this product capable of campaign? Should it be present on social media? These coordination are an integral part of our daily work.”
Design for modern towns
At the center of the creative orientation of the label is the commitment to a contemporary design, which is based on suitability for everyday use. “We design for everyday life,” says Olander. “Shoes that are portable and versatile, but always have a modern touch.” The collections are developed in a rolling cycle, with about six seasonal drops that are supplemented by regular updates during the season. “Design at Vagabond doesn’t take a break.”
An important source of inspiration is the extensive brand archive, especially the strong design DNA of the 90s. “Our archives are a gold pit,” she says. “Some of our greatest successes were triggered by models from our early years. Right now, boat shoes are coming back, and this silhouette was one of the first to design. The urban aesthetics of Vagabond should overcome age and geographical borders.” We do not design for certain markets, “explains Olander. “We design for the urban, stylish people who value quality and timeless attractiveness.”
Sustainability and structure with meaning
In today’s fashion industry, real commitment to sustainability requires more than just superficial changes, it requires a fully integrated approach. Vagabond works exclusively with LWG-certified tanneries, uses chrome-free leather for feed and processes organic cotton, Tencel ™ and GRS-certified recycled polyester in its designs. “We keep control of the entire process,” says Olander. “Every shoe is manufactured and tested as a prototype in our work in Varberg.” This practical approach ensures consistency, quality and responsibility. In addition to the materials, the label attaches great importance to craftsmanship and technical development. From the development of the strips to the design of the soles, all decisive steps are taken in your own house – a rare advantage in today’s fragmented production landscape.
In 2023, Vagabond went one step further in the commitment to long -term effect when the founders Marie Nilsson Peterzén and Mats Nilsson brought the company into the newly founded Vagabond Shoemakers Foundation. This unique owner structure ensures that future profits in research, education and non -profit initiatives will be reinvested. At the beginning of 2025, the foundation announced its first grants of a total of 1.4 million euros, with which organizations such as doctors without borders and Mercy Ships are supported.
Expand the horizon, remain rooted
Although shoes are the vagabond heart, the brand does not shy away from researching adjacent categories that fit their DNA. The success of the leather bags and jackets, natural extensions of shoe competence, proves this flexibility. “When we launched our first bags, we weren’t sure, because after all we are shoemakers: inside,” laughs Olander. “But it was a huge success. Our leather jackets were also sold out within 24 hours.”
In the future, she provides for expanding the worldwide presence of Vagabond and at the same time remaining true to the core values: craftsmanship, sustainability and the conviction that good design should be both portable and durable. “We want to become a really global fashion brand,” she says, “but always on our own conditions.” Olander remains open to extensions, but at the same time emphasizes continuity. “It’s about staying true to our DNA and developing us with the world around us at the same time,” she says. “I just want to continue this trip.”