The Fashion Week season for autumn/winter 2025 is coming to an end. The big views from New York to Paris have run and now it is time to see which trends make the leap from the catwalk into the shop. Marta Gramaccioni recapitulates the season.
In an interview, the Luisaviaroma Buying Director reveals its FW25 highlights, as the Italian fashion dealer reacts to the purchase supply in the luxury segment and which pieces are currently going well.
What do you take from the FW25 Womenswear season?
This season felt like a moment of transition for many brands. We saw a lot of debuts, as well as brands without a clear creative direction or even without presentations. Many designers: Inside, focused on consolidating their brand identity instead of chasing trends afterwards. They focused on craftsmanship and showed a sophisticated interpretation of femininity. There was a balance between modernity and tradition, which made a season of reflection and transformation this season.
What were your highlights?
With a view of New York, Milan and Paris, there were outstanding moments in every city. In New York, Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein was chic and well implemented, while Khaite delivered one of his strongest shows so far. Milan fascinated us with Prada, Jil Sander and Ferragamo, but in Paris we saw the most impressive presentations.
Haider Ackermann’s debut at Tom Ford was a big highlight, Miu Miu once again defined what is cool and how we should dress, while Valentino continued his development with an incredibly demanding show.
What trends determine the season?
This season brought classic tailoring back with a 60s-inspired twist-rather figure-hugging silhouettes and structured coats. Fur remains a key factor, whether in the form of art fur, shorn shearling or oversize coats. There was also a strong game with textures, deconstructed shapes and pajama-inspired clothing with exaggerated volume. Other important elements are suede pieces, ultra-laugh boots, statement glasses and total leather.
Have certain colors stuck out?
The season was dominated by neutral tones, but outstanding accents of deep red, warm caramel and icy blue tones contrast and energy.
There is currently a lot of discussion about whether the time of the big trends is over. What do you think?
While fashion is increasingly about individuality and personal expression than individual trends, there are still key elements – whether in materials, silhouettes or styling – that are repeated in the collections. These cannot be ignored and naturally develop into formative trends of the season.
What was the last “big trend” for you?
The “Quiet Luxury” movement was the last big trend that had a far-reaching effect-timeless, subtle pieces with flawless quality. Now, however, we see a return to expressive fashion in which the focus is on the personal style.
Have you also discovered new talents?
Absolutely. This season, several aspiring designers were presented: in the inside with fresh perspectives, such as Recto for clothing, Jew for shoes, Maeden for bags.
Will you add new brands to your portfolio?
This season we have invested more than ever in new brands and strengthened almost every WOMENWEAR category. We are always looking for fresh perspectives and designers who offer something unique.
Were there changes in your budget planning?
The market continues to develop and we adapt our strategy accordingly. Overall, our budget remains in harmony with FS25, but was reduced compared to HW24. Our focus is on re -balancing the investments via various brands, categories and price points in order to ensure a curated and commercially strong offer.
Which pieces are currently going well with Luisaviaroma?
At the moment we are in the middle of the SS25 sale. Initially, the customers concentrated on transitional pieces such as transition coats, leather jackets and workwear-inspired outerwear. Now the focus is on daywear from new brands, ballerinas, ultra -hoody suede pockets and clothes.
What is the general mood of your customers?
Our customers: Inside, they love combining different brands and price points and thus creating unique and unexpected combinations. There is a strong desire for individuality, whereby personal styling decisions define the look instead of following a single aesthetics.
Is there also a noticeable purchase retention in the luxury segment?
At the moment, the luxury sector has lost some of its attraction – exclusivity is no longer absolutely desirable. We have to rethink and align luxury as a dream as something that is open and yet accessible as part of its new price dynamics. It is about bringing the magic back and at the same time adapting to today’s reality.
This interview was led in writing and translated from English.