Per some is a state of the soul for others a lifestyle, but for everyone, the Maremmawild heart of the Tuscanyis an oasis of tranquility, ideal for active holidays in nature. On the one hand, the sea with long beaches and little -known coves, on the other hills, rows of lives, olive groves, historical countries and ancient farmhouses restored in a workmanlike manner.
In this land no one has mounted his head, despite the noble attendations. As The ideal destination for car turns, bike excursions and rags on motorbike remains, perhaps inframed by delicious stops based on local products and good wines. And some curiosities … spicy. Like the Peperite company (Peperita.it) Of Bibbona, starting point of our itinerary. Created by Rita Salvadori, they cultivate and transform 17 types of chilli pepper, including Carolina Reaper, the most spicy in the world. All organic and all to try in jams, flakes and spicy creams for sale in the laboratory.
After a tour in the alleys of Bibbona, you go up to Castagneto Carduccithe medieval village that bears the name of the poet who lived there from 1848 to 1849 and laid the foundations of his patriotic poetic here. To see the Giosuè Carducci Archive Museum (Museocarducci.it) and the Carducci house (tel. 0565.881240). To find out more about the poet’s Tuscan life, the book is found in the newsstands Giosuè Carducci (Moroni). Among the addresses not to be missed in Castagneto Carducci: the Sartoria Arte e Moda (tel. 0565.763694), where principles and countesses order the traditional Maremma jackets to the Cacciatora, custom -made, in Fustagno or in velvet; and the awarded Borsi liqueurs factory (Borsiliquori.it) to buy China Calisaja’s elixir and the great shepherd’s liqueur.
Barefoot along the shoreline
On the beach of San Vincenzo A walk on the long beach adjacent to the Park of Rimigliano and crowned by the sand dunes on which juniper, lily, myrtle and lentisco bloom. The La Perla del Mare restaurant deserves a stop (laperladelmare.it), also equipped with deck chairs and umbrellas. Here, looking at the horizon, Chef Deborah Corsi, a member of the Association of Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe, prepares traditional dishes with inspiration and spirit of innovation, such as the cuttlefish sandwich on a creamy pepper and burrata.
The Gulf of Baratti, in Tuscany.
In Maremma, in the Archaeological Park Vista Sea
A handful of kilometers and here The Gulf of Barattiwith the beautiful beach and the thick pine forests overlooking the transparent sea, which houses the remains of a system of ancient Etruscan necropolises enhanced by Archaeological park of Baratti and Populonia (PARCHIVALICARNIA.it). To visit it, you go into the luxuriant Mediterranean scrub in routes that go from the sea to the hills. The first necropolis overlooks the gulf and the other is more inside, while the acropolis is located in Populonia, the only Etruscan city on the sea. A chronological path ranging from prehistory to the late antique (6th century AD) crossing the Etruscan period is found in Archaeological museum of the territory of Populonialocated in the historic center of Plumbing. Here, the star is the silver amphora of Baratti, a single piece returned by the depths of the gulf of the same name.
The Mulino del Cardellino, near Bibbona.
The resort on the hill
Then go up towards medieval Scarlinodominated by Fortressa fortress of the thirteenth century that belonged to the Aldobrandini family, from which you can enjoy a panorama that ranges from the sea to the metalliferous hills. In this micropaesino, Anna Barberini, one of the pioneer of Ruralchic tourism in Maremma, after having Abandoned the world of television, he has transformed a country house into an adult resort, with six suite furnished with period furniture, many belonging to his family (such as the trunk of an old avo explorer) and a restaurant (Dringer.com). The property is on a hill called Lookout: The spectacular view overlooks Elba and Corsica, on the Gulf of Follonica and the bandits of Scarlino, an untouchable state property area, and for this very green, five kilometers from the equipped beach of the point. Curiosity? “We are friends of the animals, we welcome dogs of all sizes for this they have many travelers with their favorites,” says Barberini.
The chapel of San Cerbone, in Baratti.
This pecorino is a super food
In this clove of Tuscany that evokes the intense green and the scent of the pine forests and the Mediterranean scrub, the escape of hills dotted with towers and castles, the suggestion of ancient villages, “women deal with sheep farming and transhumancetrades traditionally declined to male »explains Giuliana Biagioli, an economic historian and president of the research institute in the area and the environment – Leonardo. A surprise discovering that even those works, which have always been handed down from father to son, are no longer an exclusive of men. As Angela Saba, Casara and Hall and Hall A testifies to New care (sabaformaggi.it), which focuses on innovation. “With the University of Pisa we have experienced a pecorino with a high omega 3 content, also suitable for those with high cholesterol, a real success”.
Massa Marittima, a jewel of the square
The Cathedral of Massa Marina.
An opportunity to make dairy purchases and visit the neighbor Massa Marittimawhere the enchantment and the malia of the territory is revealed by degrees. Its square represents one of the best examples of medieval urban planning. The amazing scenography is given by the harmonious arrangement between the spaces and volumes of Cathedral and those of the palaces that surround it. A refined game of symmetries. For the anomalous position of the church, the gaze runs on the left side that opens in a chopped churchyard and closes with the Bishop’s palaceon which the bell tower stands austere. Although the extractive activity is no longer one of the main mass resources, the visit to the Museum Museum (MuseidimaMma.it), one more piece to get to know the territory. © RESERVED REPRODUCTION
A glimpse of the village of Castagneto Carducci.
Where to sleep in Maremma
Be looks Poggio La Forcola, 12, Scarlino (Grosseto). Relais and Glamping surrounded by greenery. Double from 250 euros per day, with breakfast. Dringer.com
The Pool of the Relais Be Setta.
Old Vecchia, 23, Massa Marittima (Grosseto). It was the first bike hotel in Tuscany, now managed by the Hutmaker sisters, founded by the cyclist father. Great attention to bikers, from breakfast to hospitalization for bicycles. Double 90 euro B&B. Massavecchia.it
Relais Sant Elena – Tenuta Gardini Bibbona, via Campo di Sasso, (Livorno). At the entrance of the Magona Park. Sixteen rooms with canopy beds in the master home of the Gardini Rossi Ciamolini family, surrounded by a well -kept garden. The property extends from the woods to the pine forests that line the sea. Vineyards and fields alternate with meadows where Chianine cows graze. Double B&B of 380 €. Relaisantelena.it
Where to eat
La Pineta restaurant Via dei Cavalleggeri Nord 27, Marina di Bibbona (Livorno). Few tables in front of the beach, excellent fresh fish caught carefully served by the Zazzeri brothers. Try the mixture of sea raw. lapinetadizazzeri.it
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