In a world full of contradictions, the trend themes of the fabric collections for the Spring/Summer 2026 season also fluctuate between different extremes. While some focus on security and essentials with classic themes, others are specifically looking for looks and styles that emphasize individuality and uniqueness. And above all this there is another topic: the sustainable, EU-compliant transformation of textile production.
After two days, the international fabric trade fair Munich Fabric Start with its show-in-show concepts Bluezone, Keyhouse and The Source came to an end yesterday. 625 international exhibitors showed their approximately 1,200 collections with the latest material innovations for Spring/Summer 2026, accompanied by an extensive lecture program on current topics in the textile and fashion industry. And as in previous years, they focused primarily on the topic of sustainability and how the industry can successfully implement existing and future EU legislation. After all, the deadlines for new EU laws are getting closer and closer. The year 2030 is an important intermediate step on the path to net zero in 2050, during which important goals must be achieved.
Trends: Play between risky non-conformism and safe basics
In addition to the new materials for summer 2026, the topic of cost control played a main role at the trade fair. “You can tell that the industry is unsettled,” says a designer who did not want to be named. “Fewer and fewer brands are investing in creativity, everyone just wants basics and security.” At the same time, things that are not basic but are surprising and fun are doing very well. But that’s difficult to plan. The Munich Fabric Start trend zones also present themselves in this contradiction, which on the one hand focus on individually curated looks, radical style breaks, wild pattern mixes and everything surprising with trend topics such as “Unorthodox”, “Limitless” or “Not Reproducible”, and on the other hand, celebrate classic colors, patterns and contrasts with trend themes such as “Lasting”, “Emotional Heritage”, “From the Archive” or “Timeless Modernity”. In general, the topic of trend finding is becoming increasingly difficult, as fast fashion providers like Shein immediately copy every trend, regardless of whether it is a catwalk trend or something from the street.
When it comes to denim, street styles continue to set the tone. “I believe that the super-oversized silhouette will stay for longer,” says Tilmann Wröbel, designer and owner of Monsieur-T. Denim Lifestyle Studio, who designed the trend areas at Bluezone and gave the trend talk. While standard fashion is currently having a hard time in the denim sector, the industry is looking for ways to cause a stir without taking too much risk. Exciting collaborations, such as Levi’s with Lego or Diesel with Coca-Cola, provide important impetus. “Reconstruct” is the name of another trend theme for denim that is visually reminiscent of upcycling, but plays with the brands’ iconic symbols. Wröbel also sees good opportunities for denim brands from the 2000s, whose time is now ripe for a revival. True Religion is a good example of this. The topic of second hand also fits in with this, and its appeal continues to increase because it is simply not reproducible. Wröbel talks about the Parisian brand Coperni, which also sent second-hand items down the catwalk along with its own collection. “Five to ten years ago it would have been unthinkable that second-hand items were just as relevant to fashion as new items and had the same status.”
The denim supplier Isko, for example, brought new looks to Munich with its new multi-touch collection. Only with the help of heat can fabrics be given very different effects such as folds or embossed patterns. “Designers want to have more options with the same fabric,” explains Isko’s Keith O’Brien. The Isko Luxury by PG collection was also as opulent as usual, with checks and other patterns made from real silver threads woven into it.
Denim: New technologies to reduce resource consumption
The denim industry in particular has developed many new technologies in recent years that help reduce the ecological footprint of denim, from the use of recycled fibers to water-free dyeing processes. The companies Sonovia Tech from Israel and Synovance from France presented further innovations in the area of dyeing. Sonovia’s dyeing technology is based on ultrasound and uses no toxic chemicals and 85 percent less water. Sonovia only requires a single dye bath, which saves energy and reduces the complexity of the dyeing process and ultimately costs. “This technology will revolutionize denim production,” says Annabelle Evenhaime from Sonovia. The technology already works on an industrial scale and is expected to be implemented in at least five locations this year, including in cooperation with Kering.
The method of the French bio-tech company Synovance is based on biologically reproducing the denim dye indigo using genetic research. In contrast to synthetic dyeing processes based on petroleum as a raw material and which are mainly used today, this dyeing method does not involve any dangerous chemical reactions with many toxic intermediate substrates. The dye is still more expensive than synthetic dye, “but in five to six years we want to be able to compete with the prices of synthetic indigo,” says Efthimia Lioliou, co-founder and COO of Synovance. “We believe that in 10 years, organically produced dyes will be the standard option for most textile applications.”
Nearshoring denim: Is that an alternative?
The supply chains in the global textile and clothing industry have been put to the test several times in recent years. With US President Donald Trump taking office, concerns are once again increasing about how global production routes will develop in the future. Under the motto “Blue made in the EU”, industry insiders discussed how the denim supply chain could be used more widely in Europe again. Because they still exist: from European cotton cultivation (in Greece and Spain) to spinning, weaving, dyeing and laundries. There is also a lot of know-how in Europe that is helping the industry move forward on its path to greater sustainability. For example, the renowned Italian denim weaver Candiani has developed a material made from 70 percent post-consumer yarn and 30 percent renewable cotton that is still robust and durable. “We have to take our cue from the automotive industry,” says Stefano Tessarolo from finishing specialist Jeanologia, which can use automation and digitalization to reduce costs, increase efficiency and therefore operate in Europe. A European supply chain also facilitates transparency. George Kitas from Nafpaktos Textile Industry in Greece works closely with local cotton farmers and can offer local companies full transparency and traceability. Everyone agrees that future legislation in particular could help here if it is implemented. “77 percent of the products sold in Europe were imported,” says Simon Giuliani of Candiani. “All of this actually has to be produced according to the same EU guidelines as domestic products, but this is not monitored.”
New materials for the circular economy
The circular economy has become an integral part of the design and manufacturing process – no longer just in theory, but also in practice. Numerous start-ups, institutes and established companies presented their solutions on how material cycles can be closed in the future. In addition to new recycled fibers and fiber mixtures, more and more companies are also devoting themselves to the question of how to improve the conditions in companies in order to advance the transformation. The newly launched, three-year, funded project “Retract” by DTB and RWTH Aachen University investigates the question of how sustainability can be integrated into corporate processes. The German outdoor brand Ortovox and the Japanese fabric supplier Toray are participating as partner companies. “We want to investigate which setting is required and which management tools are helpful so that textile compliance can be achieved,” explains Nicole Espey from RWTH Aachen. The Texroad Foundation from the Netherlands, in turn, is working to generate data for the post-consumer recycling market. “We ask very simple questions,” says Traci Kinden, founder of Texroad, and means something like: How much goods are collected and where? How much of it can be reused as second hand, how much is sent, what is recycled, how much waste is created? “This information is very important for transparency, but also, for example, to determine locations for recycling plants or to find out which data is necessary for the digital product passport to simplify recycling,” says Kinden. Due to a number of recycling scandals, many people have become suspicious of textile recycling in recent years. “More transparency in the recycling supply chain would increase trust again.”
