The Helsinki restaurant Palema recently turned 93 years old.
Reima Mäenpää and Jari Lönnberg have continued Palema’s long history with Finnish and Helsinki food. Eeva Paljakka
Ten years ago restaurateurs Reima Mäenpää and Jari Lönnberg made a mistake that has not happened again.
The men had opened a meat wholesale business on the same day From Veijo Votkin Paleman, the restaurant he bought. It was Thursday and the fresh-from-the-bake restaurateurs had decided to tear up and remove the pea soup that had been on the menu for over 90 years.
Now ten years later, they laugh that pretty quickly customer feedback made them change their decision.
Already the following week, the mistake had been corrected, so pea soup and pancakes were available.
– That first Thursday was the only time, Mäenpää laughs.
Of course, it is impossible to say with certainty how pea soup was served during the war.
In summer, there is a terrace in front of Palema.
In 1933, a staff canteen was established in Helsinki’s wholesale market, at the gate of the slaughterhouse, in connection with the administration building.
Few restaurants in Helsinki have served the same purpose without interruption for more than 90 years. And few restaurants live with the same spirit of the past as today in Palema. It has been kept as original as possible.
Once upon a time, in the canteen of the slaughterhouse, workers in overalls ate on the side of the main hall, and the office staff gathered in the adjacent cabinet. The same space division still exists, although now customers can choose their seats freely. At the adjacent tables in Palema, both Dunars and Diriks are having lunch. That too is rare.
Haukiwallenberg belongs to the long list of classic dishes. Eeva Paljakka
Votkin, who bought the restaurant in 1987, named it Palema after his trotting horse. The name of the horse is not exactly clear. It could have been Carolina Palema or Katariina Palema.
Votkin ran a restaurant Risto Saastamoinen with over 30 years.
The current Palema’s menu has changed somewhat from the previous one.
– Back then, they made more delicious food. Risto’s portion had 20 meatballs, ours a little less, Lönnberg describes.
Although the wholesale market has changed over the decades, workers and entrepreneurs from the area still visit Palema to eat.
Pelama’s favorite dishes are other flavored meatballs, liver steak and wallenberg. Eeva Paljakka
And pea soup is not on the list just because of tradition.
– Its eaters are not only old guys, but also the young gang. I dig it myself. It’s incredibly good, says Mäenpää.
Pea soup takes time to succeed. First, the peas are soaked for a long time and then the soup is allowed to simmer for a long time.
– Pea soup is surprisingly delicate, if it’s too salty, you won’t eat it. If it’s too sweet, it’s no longer pea soup, Mäenpää characterizes.
Another Palema classic dish is läske sauce. It too has its own staunch fan base. On the first Tuesday of every month, läsä sauce is served. Then there is a queue of about ten regular customers behind the door even before opening.
On the first Tuesday of the month, Palema has läsä sauce for lunch. Eeva Paljakka
The preparation of lard sauce begins with browning the pork flank. After that, a perfect brown sauce is made.
– This restaurant has a long tradition and history, we strive to maintain the Finnish and Helsinki food tradition. Läski sauce is part of that, says Mäenpää.
He has noticed that some people have prejudices against lässösös. The name may create the wrong impression. In these cases, Mäenpää may bring the customer a small tasting portion so that he can decide whether he likes it or not.
However, lard sauce is becoming a rarity on restaurant menus. At least in the Kolme kruunua restaurant in Helsinki, it is offered every day, as well as in Tampere restaurant Heinätor.
After lunch, Palema serves private events. Mäenpää laughs that they specialize in parties organized in the evening after the dissertation, or karonkas, but many other parties are organized in the restaurant hall, from christenings to funerals.