The Dutch fashion designer Tessa Koops has been designing expressive women’s fashion in which striking prints meet feminine silhouettes for over a decade. In the Netherlands, she is known for her characteristic handling of color and nostalgic designs and has built up a loyal followers of self -confident women who appreciate personality in their wardrobe. With the international expansion of the brand, including in markets such as the USA, Germany and Spain, their philosophy of individuality is becoming increasingly important.
In her boutique in the Amsterdam Herenstraat it is anything but monotonous. Between walls full of lively graphics and vintage furniture, Koops feel at home in the company of their three cats Floyd, Tartufo and Babybel. Fashionunited met with the designer to learn more about the essence of the brand, her creative process and her view of the changing fashion world.
“The word ‘happy’ may sound carefree, but I have found that it makes people really happy,” she begins. “Clothing influences the mood; it can reinforce the mood and the way you want to express yourself.” This philosophy forms the basis of its designs: clothing that not only looks beautiful, but also influences how to interact with the world and how you feel.
A brand for brave, strong women
Coops’ collections are not based on microtrends, but still remain up to date. “Fashion moves and I move with me.” She emphasizes that her designs are intended for women who have the courage to stand out from the crowd and to remain true to their own style. “I don’t make brave clothes, but my clothes are worn by brave, strong women,” she explains. “Individuality and personality are woven into my designs. Women feel confident in my clothes because they do not necessarily follow the latest trends, but underline their own style.”
In a world in which Androgyne and Unisex fashion are becoming increasingly important, Koops keeps the balance between femininity and contrasts. She also understands her designs as a supplement to other simpler brands and is inspired by the 1970s, an era that, in her opinion, exudes an authentic retro charm and nostalgia. This is reflected in the prints and silhouettes that they create: from impact trousers and west to blouses with puffy and long wrap dresses that women can wear both edgy and elegant. “Today, women like to combine chunky boots with a dress instead of elegant pumps. I always keep that in mind when designing. For me, the dress is and remains the eternal hit.”
The creative process: fabric and print
For Koops, the creative process almost always begins with pressure or fabric quality. “It almost always starts with the print,” she explains. “When I see a pattern, I think about which piece of clothing it could fit. The fabric determines whether it becomes a flowing dress or a striking jacket.” Your collection consists of a mixture of specially designed prints and carefully selected patterns of printers within Europe. These are specially converted, changed, adapted and enlarged to give them an unmistakable character. “Every season I work with color pallets that appeal to me, like warm tones in autumn or fresh blue-green combinations in summer,” she says.
Koops still likes to work on patterns themselves and often cuts their own hand to see how fabrics work together, which makes their work process particularly practical. “I don’t work with technical drawings; I design it according to feeling. Working from a drawing is often not a circular process, while a woman is three -dimensional.” This gives your designs an additional independent note: “I think the personal aspect is very important, personal attention in all areas. For example, I have not decided to name my brand ‘Bombari’. My name is my brand.”
Future plans: innovation and international expansion
What does the future have for Tessa Koops? “We are working on the expansion in Europe, with a focus on Germany and Spain. It is a continuous process because I believe in sustainable growth. The USA remains a dream that a flagship boutique in New York or Los Angeles would be fantastic.”
Coops are inspired by Spain for future collections, a country that fascinates them both professionally and privately. The lifestyle prevailing there and the culture in which strolling is an art fits perfectly with the DNA of its designs: courageous, refined and always with boutique flair. In addition to international ambitions, a social and sustainable attitude towards fashion also plays an increasingly important role for your brand: “Not so much in my designs, but in setting the clothes how we deal with it.”
Tessa Koops remains loyal to her vision: to design clothing for women who want to enjoy life with individuality and joy. Your mix of living prints, flowing fabrics and personal handwriting makes your brand popular with both retailers and with consumers. “With my brand I hope to offer women, especially creative women, a feeling of playfulness. Because playfulness can always surprise and give character.”