The Paris men’s fashion week, which ended on Sunday, put a return to a new form of elegance and the desire for comfort in its autumn winter collections 2025-2026-often crossed by political messages.
The ‘neo dandy’
“There is a clear trend back to elegance. Many brands take up the idea of the ‘Neo-Dandy’. You want to reinterpret the type man who wants to dress consciously and stylishly, ”analyzes Adrien Communier, fashion director of the Modemagazin GQ France.
The suit is therefore omnipresent: at AMI as a “mix and match” in wide-cut silhouettes that are reminiscent of the English students of Cambridge, in velvet at Hermès, with inspiration from the 1970s at Amiri and Latin American influences at Willy Chavarria, or In strict form at Egonlab.
A master of his field remains Kim Jones, who presented a collection at Dior Homme – possibly his last -, which was inspired by graphic, puristic designs and suits, inspired by the archives Monsieur Dior and visually extended the silhouette. At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo Streetwear-Codes banged with elements of dandytum-for example, combined with bomber jackets, leather blousons or teddy jackets.
Comfort remains a central factor
“Despite the new tightening interpretations, comfort remains an important topic,” says Communier. Long cuts and soft materials – as with Yohji Yamamoto, who presented stepped jackets with suitable pants – convey the need to literally cuddle up, explains the expert.
Layering also remains a central stylistic device. Yamamoto, Superkid, Hermès, Color and Aurale play with it, with the latter laying knitting clothes over large wool sweaters with XXL sleeves. At 3. Paradis, French designer Emeric Tchatchoua drove comfort to the extreme by cut down jackets in the form of duvets and pillows.
Narrow trousers
Although wide, flowing trousers and Baggy Bermudas, which are reminiscent of the 2000s, continue to dominate, the first tendencies show up to narrower, shorter pants, as with Dior. “I think we move back towards an aesthetics that is strongly inspired by the 2010s when slim fit pants determined fashion,” said Communier.
The winter season also brought with it mostly dark color pallets, including brown, khaki, taupe, beige and cream. But color accents were also represented: from powdery pink at Dior to Bonbonrosa near Vuitton and Kenzo to red, blue and yellow at BlueMarble and strong yellow at AMI.
Political messages on the catwalk
The current world situation also found its way to the catwalks. The Californian Willy Chavarria gave a clear political statement at his first Paris Défilé-inspired by the film Emilia Perez with a trans actress who is acted as an Oscar favorite, as well as the pro-LGBT speech by the Washington bishop towards Donald Trump.
After his futuristic show, Walter van Beirendonck, Belgian designer, commented on “Peace, Not War”-Badges on jackets and the musical accompaniment of John Lennons and Yoko Onos Give Peace a Chance. He criticized the extreme right and the world’s outbreak: “It is terrifying what is currently happening in the world. Too many wars, too much extreme. “
This article previously appeared on fashionunited.fr and was used with the help of digital tools translated.
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