For the Dior Cruise 2023 collection, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, like Christian Dior, was inspired by Spanish culture.
With the collection, Chiuri followed in the footsteps of the fashion designer, who often traveled through the southern country during his time as founder and designer at Dior and incorporated the silhouettes and colors of Spanish fashion into his creations. The designer sees in the Cruise collection “a meeting of emotions and intentions that conveys a vision of fashion that is both everyday and extraordinary”. She points to the diversity with which the creations express different versions of femininity.
Shown in the darkness of the Sevillian night hours on Thursday evening, the show begins quietly but impressively. In complete silence and lit only by the dim glow of a single cone of light, a flamenco dancer opens the parade. Nothing can be heard except the rhythmic clicking of her shoes, echoing her movements.
The arches of Plaza de España stand out with a reddish glow in the background. But then the scenery lights up. A group of red-clad dancers descend the building’s stairs – accompanied by a string orchestra. Then you see the first models in Chiuri’s designs walking across the square in the semi-darkness.
The opening look embodies Chiuri’s vision of the fusion of feminine and masculine elements in a visual way: plain black trousers, a white top and a flowing cape with a black and white pattern are complemented by black men’s shoes and suspenders. A collection of contrasting looks follows, playing with feminine and masculine elements, mixing the dramatic with the serious and austerity with romance.
A composition of opposites
The color palette of the collection consists almost exclusively of black, white, beige and various shades of red. Monochrome pieces give the collection a coordinated feel, with many models dressed in tonal looks from head to toe. Floral motifs appear as embroidery on transparent fabrics or as a contrast in black and white looks. The volume of some dresses and skirts contrasts with the fitted and straight lines of the jackets and trousers. Thick black belts with gold buckles and straight-brimmed hats that cover the models’ faces with penumbra are common threads throughout the collection. Heavy velvet and leather creations alternate with pieces made of flowing, translucent materials.
Embroidered vests and boleros, as well as button-down jackets with Brandenburg fasteners and implied epaulettes are reminiscent of the matador tradition in Spain, patent and laced shoes, fishnet stockings, flowing skirts and tailcoat-like coats transport the viewers to another age. Many of the dresses are designed to mimic the silhouette of flamenco costumes – Carmen Amaya, a well-known flamenco dancer from the first half of the 20th century, served as the muse for the collection. Some models wear whips and knee-high leather boots – a reference to the horse breeding native to Andalusia.
Yet tradition is also juxtaposed with modernity: four looks deviate from the show’s curated aesthetic – deep blue denim ensembles paired with the Dior print add variety. Some looks with trousers and capes made of puffer material and short skirts combined with mesh tops create a connection to contemporary fashion.
A flowing taffeta dress with exposed shoulders and ruffle details is shown in five color versions, a row of gold shimmering dresses is reminiscent of haute couture. The collection closes with four dresses that depict Spanish culture in pictorial motifs – one of the dresses has the lettering ‘Fuego’, the Spanish word for fire.
Behind the Scenes – A Craftsmanship Exchange
In honor of Spanish craftsmanship, Chiuri has collaborated with various Spanish experts. Two artists and a leather studio used their traditional craft for the leather embroidery of the looks. The Dior saddle bag has also been reinterpreted using a Spanish leather technique.
The fans featured in the show were specially made by a fan workshop – they showcase a 200-year-old craft. A goldsmith has made it possible to create the jewels in the collection using a sophisticated technique originally reserved for the decoration of metal religious objects.
Two traditional Spanish hat styles have been reinterpreted and crafted by a milliner’s workshop. An embroidery atelier spanning over three generations handcrafted the manilas – the shawl-like head and shoulder wraps – featured in the collection with signature Dior emblems.