Skin care: the only ingredients that really work

Wandering through the shelves of the cosmetic department, between anti-aging creams With ingredients with a unpronounceable name and serums that promise miracles, we all ask ourselves the same question: will it work or is it only marketing? And above all, what do we really need to slow down skin aging?

The answer, for a long time, comes from those of the profession studies the skin and its mechanisms. Sixty -two American dermatologists of 43 institutions analyzed 318 cosmetic ingredients, reaching an agreement on just 23 of them. The results, published on the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatologydismantle different beliefs and confirm that science often already knows what it takes. Just listen to it.

The number 1 ally of the skin

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Retinoids win over everything. These vitamin A derivatives, used by dermatologists for decades, obtain the consent of over 96 percent of the experts For 5 of the 7 skin conditions analyzed: thin wrinkles, acne, dark spots, dilated pores and oily skin. “Retinoids are probably The most studied topical products Both for acne and to reduce the visible signs of aging, and we have a huge amount of data and research that demonstrate their security and effectiveness “he explains Murad Alamdeputy director of the Department of Dermatology at the Northwestern Medicine and first author of the study. “Almost everyone can tolerate retinoids without problems, as long as they use a small amount and only a few days a week”.

The mechanism is known: retinoids accelerate cellular change and stimulate collagen production. Whether it’s Tretinoin on prescription or counter -counter retinol, more delicate, they represent the thing closest to a universal solution for the skin that exists. But beware of dosages. “Only the dermatologist can help find the right retinoid and the right dosage regime” specifies Alam. “Almost nobody is truly allergic, but many people use too much even if a small amount applied one or two evenings a week may be enough”.

Protection as a rule

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On another point all dermatologists agree: Solar protection is not negotiable. Mineral filters obtain the consensus of 96.8 percent of experts to prevent wrinkles and 95.2 percent to reduce redness. Chemical filters also enter the list with 82.3 percent consent for anti-aging. The almost unanimous agreement reflects a change of fundamental perspective: Instead of focusing only on how to repair the existing damage, we must learn to prevent them from occurring. And daily protection from the sun emerges as the most important step that anyone can do for their skin.

What he has not convinced

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More interesting than what worked is perhaps what did not convince the experts 100%. Many ingredients that dominate the Instagram feeds and the most expensive serums have not exceeded the examination. DNA repair enzymes, growth factors and peptides, common watchwords in beauty marketing, have not been able to obtain the approval of the dermatologists involved in the study, despite the bold promises and … the high prices.

Many trendy ingredients are simply lacking robust clinical tests that dermatologists require before recommending them to patients. The gap between what the beauty influencers promote and what doctors recommend that marketing is often precedes science in the beauty industry.

The other protagonists

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Even without stealing the scene from retinoids, other ingredients also obtained the consent of dermatologists for some concerns. Benzoile peroxide received the approval of 95.2 percent of dermatologists for the treatment of acnewhile salicylic acid obtained 93.6 percent of support for acne and 79 percent for oily skin. For dark spots, the hydrochinone is at the top of the list with 98.4 percent consent, even if more recent alternatives such as Kojico acid (93.6 percent) and Tranexamic acid (87.1 percent) have gained consensus.

Vitamin C has obtained approval for both anti-aging (88.7 percent) and for the treatment of dark spots (87.1 percent). For dry skin, experts favored not very glamorous but effective ingredients such as vaseline (85.5 percent consent), hyaluronic acid (79 percent), ceramids (82.1 percent) and urea (79 percent). All substances available, often, also in cheap products.

Severa selection

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The study was based on an approach known as Delphi consent process. The researchers left 318 ingredients from the medical literature published between 1990 and 2020, then they gradually narrow the list through multiple evaluation rounds. To get to the final cut, in which at least 70 percent of dermatologists had to recommend an ingredient and no more than 15 percent had to advise against it.

A follow-up analysis revealed that most of the ingredients on which there was consent were supported by scientific evidence, As high quality randomized controlled studies.

“It is the first time that many experts met to statistically evaluate the options for skin care,” Alam says, which is also dermatologist and surgeon of the Northwestern Medicine. “We wanted to help both doctors and end users to understand which ingredients have the favorable opinion of dermatologists.” And adds a precious advice: When it comes to skin care, the “more” is not always better. “Using many products can irritate the skin and worsen things. It is about knowing which ingredients are more effective for our specific concerns and are better for our routine”.

In short, instead of chasing the last viral ingredient, better to focus on proven fundamentals: retinoids (but on medical advice, editor’s note), daily sun protection for prevention and targeted treatments for specific problems. And know that the most effective skin care routine could already be in plain sight on the shelves of pharmacies a affordable priceswithout the need to resort to expensive ingredients.