Sometimes you walk into a restaurant and immediately have the feeling that you are going to have a nice evening. You follow the host or hostess, take a seat, look around and smile expectantly that this could be something.
That’s what I get when we enter EVE by Rotterdam star chef Erik van Loo, from restaurant Parkheuvel, which is currently being renovated. Just like in Parkheuvel, father Erik and son Juliën are in charge of the kitchen. EVE is located on the corner of the stately Paleisstraat in The Hague, diagonally opposite the palace on Noordeinde. It is a beautiful building that we have walked past countless times, that we have photographed in the evening in the moonlight and that suddenly turns out to house a new restaurant.
We are greeted enthusiastically by the staff and soon see the spacious, attractive room with enormous windows filling up with guests. A table further away sits a VVD member from the time when VVD members were still sympathetic. It has only just opened, but many people clearly know their way there. Not surprising with such a renowned chef.
EVE has one bitesmenu with small snacks, an à la carte menu and a set menu composed of dishes from the menu. We opt for individual dishes because there are all kinds of tempting dishes on the menu that we want to taste. Including a lobster hot dog on the bitesmenu: a nice brioche with sausage made from lobster and slightly spicy (very slightly spicy, it shouldn’t have a name, nothing to worry about) mayonnaise. Nice start, but actually quite a waste of lobster, because you miss everything that makes lobster so delicious: that irresistible structure, the rich taste. That is now gone.
The ravioli is a very successful marriage between Italy and Thailand: the tom yam goong broth is as light as water with the wonderful aroma of lemongrass
I rarely order soup in restaurants, but we are there during Ramadan and then a soup is pleasant after a day of fasting. But apart from that, the potato cream soup with truffle sounds like something I don’t want to miss. Potato soup is a classic and can be heavy and rich, but this one is as light as a feather and is a balm for the stomach. Rich with a hint of truffle, potato crisps, chives for some nice spiciness and – if I’m not mistaken – some parmesan. Perfect soup. My dining companion has a perfect, buttery soft ceviche of Dutch yellowfin tuna with radish and pink pepper.
The ravioli is a very successful marriage between Italy and Thailand: the tom yam goong broth in which the ravioli, filled with lobster and with the taste of set bisque, is served is as light as water and has the wonderful aroma of lemongrass. Add bean sprouts for crunchiness. A plate full of umami. Very satisfying.
As an extra course, my dining companion orders perfect sirloin steak with a strip of kale and pancetta that is too hard, which he finds disappointing and out of place. This of course includes fries, which are nice and thick, crispy and well salted – just a little too soft on the inside.
Cheerful enthusiasm
Around us we see the friendly staff busy with trays full of dishes that are all begging to be tasted. The young staff is still a bit uneasy; the experienced employees navigate smoothly and relaxed along the tables and have fun chats with guests. A Hungarian lady in particular really makes it a party with her cheerful enthusiasm. We also have a serving table next to us, so we have a good view of all the dishes and can easily ask what it is. That’s where we make mental notes for our next visit, because that will definitely happen.
Photos Hedayatullah Amid
But first the dessert, which according to the menu is a tiramisu from Hague hopjes with caramel ice cream. Maybe ‘tiramisu’ sounds better, but the structure is nothing like it, it’s more like panna cotta. But it doesn’t detract from the taste, which is good. Hague hops are certainly not to be sneezed at. After stroopwafels, I think they are perhaps the tastiest that the Netherlands has to offer.
EVE’s cuisine is contemporary, with international influences and modern and sometimes playful reinterpretations of classics. I would casual fine dining would like to mention: high quality without the formality – and without the hysterical price tag. The atmosphere is casual, the performance confident. Chefs with experience are working here and you can taste it.
Normally I would wait a while before visiting a new restaurant to give it time to find its own rhythm, but EVE doesn’t need that. It runs like a well-oiled machine, the wines are attractive and reasonably priced and the dishes are delicious. We have a new high-quality address in The Hague.
