Paris Fashion Week came to an end on Tuesday. Fashion was celebrated in the French capital for a week – these five impressions remain after numerous spectacular fashion shows:
Jackets
Clearly cut and in classic colors such as beige, gray, navy blue or black, the jacket symbolizes a new elegance – often in combination with a skirt, trousers or Bermuda shorts.
Straight-cut and in a masculine style, the jacket was seen at Dior, while Givenchy showed a satin version.
Victor Weinsanto added a hood to his jacket and Dries Van Noten showed models made of denim. Peter Do played with pops of color, while Balmain opted for a retro-style black jacket with large gold buttons.
Balenciaga, on the other hand, placed an exaggerated focus on the production of the jacket with the message: “What matters is not the jacket you wear, but the life you lead while wearing it”.
Japanese brand Issey Miyake also got involved with the garment, showing a voluminous pantsuit with a jacket with oversized, triangular shoulders.
Flowers
Whether printed, embroidered or carved, Balmain showcased a colorful and lush floral-filled collection that the design team had to recreate within ten days of the original collection being stolen.
At Givenchy, flowers appear more discreet and appear in embroidery, hand-painted motifs, delicate prints or jewelry, while at Balenciaga, long dresses with bold floral patterns stand out from the rest of the monochromatic ensembles.
This time, Dior’s typical ‘Mille Fleurs’ motif was transformed into a high-contrast floral X-ray image of black and white.
Skimpy panties
No more skirts and long pants – now it’s time for extra-short panties. Miu Miu showed off the slip-like pants in winter and models like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner are experimenting with the style in everyday life. Now the Parisian catwalks are also adopting the style.
At Dior, the skimpy look appeared in the form of a transparent mesh bodysuit and at Viktoria Beckham you could also see the short panties in the form of knitted bodysuits under longer jackets made of the same material. At Dries Van Noten, patterned bodies and short panties were hidden under long coats and trench coats.
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s panties also appeared in a flowing transition from swimsuit to garment.
Socks
Once a fashion faux pas, today a stylistic device: socks are worn with sandals or heels.
At Givenchy, knee-high socks that matched the color of the outfit or shoes were worn in high pumps with elegant suits and evening dresses. Victoria Beckham also combined knee-high socks with heels and boots.
“I like that ‘I don’t give a fuck’ look,” designer Dries Van Noten told AFP. His show paired socks with lace pumps with curved heels.
humor
The fashion shows in Paris radiated a healthy dose of humor and self-irony.
Rick Owens held his ‘Monster Ball’ around the Palais de Tokyo fountain – with neon yellow and pink smoke on one side and rose petals on the other. With their shoulders hunched and their faces covered with a kind of beekeeper’s hood, the models moved like zombies to the musical strains of ‘I still believe in love’.
After the controversial and contentious campaign images that accused Balenciaga of sexualizing children, Demna, the brand’s artistic director, kept a low profile: Dramatic music and a red catwalk in front of matching velvet curtains formed the backdrop for a show with the designer mocked his promise to refocus on clothing rather than provocation.
“Let’s go to the beach!” With this chanted request, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt opened her show, which, in contrast to the cheerful exclamation, showed gray and formal looks with huge bags as accessories.
This translated article previously appeared on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Pia Schulz