The young cook Marina Lis Ra, an Argentine of Korean descent, grew up eating milanesa with rice and kimchi. Her identity is the product of this mixture and, when searching for her voice as a cook, the natural thing for her was to integrate both worlds. Some criticize that she does not make authentic Korean cuisine, but Lis -ex Fat Boy- calls it “unconventional Korean cuisine”, and we are grateful because nothing is more indigestible when it comes to eating than dogmatism.
All the dishes have their Korean touch to a greater or lesser extent, but they use ingredients such as ricotta, olive oil, and seasonal vegetables -it is the season for asparagus and peas and in Na Num they take advantage of them: they make them grilled, served with sunflower purée, candied pumpkin seeds, beet pickle, gochugaru oil (an essential type of chili in Korean cuisine; with which kimchi ferments, and is the base of sauces and marinades). Crispy textures, cheeses or purées that soften the spiciness, spices, ferments and layers of different flavors that add richness to the dishes are always present.
For a year now, the head chef has been Franca Ruderman, a former chef at Fayer (Middle Eastern cuisine) where she experimented with the use of spices, dairy products, fermented foods and meat cooking such as the typical lacquered ribs of Nanum, typical of the cuisine Korean, related in some way to pastrami. The inspirations are varied and unprejudiced, and triumph in dishes such as the sweet potato omelette with confit onion and shiitake mushrooms, with fennel salad, herbs and sunflower seeds, and wasabi lactonese, a comfort food that adds influences from at least 5 countries of the world. Tteokbokki (rice gnocchi) are a house hit – in a spicy version with gochujang blue cheese cream and mushrooms, or with fermented soy sauce, mushrooms and fried shallots. Special mention for the mussel ceviche, with pomegranate and buckwheat granola, an authentic delight.
The interior is cozy, with good acoustics and good service; and its tree-lined sidewalk is one of the most beautiful in Chacarita. This Saturday book for the 22 o’clock shift, and go before to dance at @bailenueve (20 to 21:30), on the same block Na Num
