Menswear SS25 according to Edwin van den Hoek

The rightward turn that the Netherlands made in the elections on November 22nd was not lost on anyone. The fact that Geert Wilder’s party, PVV (Partij voor de Vrijheid), emerged victorious with (for now) 37 seats was noticed throughout Europe and even reached the American media. It’s no surprise that Dutch trend researcher Edwin van den Hoek started his trends seminar for SS25 with this topic.

“Everything I am about to say will therefore seem irrelevant. But that’s not it,” emphasizes Van den Hoek. In fact, he foresees the emergence of a movement that seeks more and more. The trend that emerged during the Corona pandemic when we were decluttering like crazy is over. Everything has to get bigger again. But is that still possible? Is there more? Or should we just be content with what we have?

We are falling back into old patterns, concludes Van den Hoek. To deal with this, he gives tips based on trends. His trend story is divided into four major themes, with upcycling, artificial intelligence, technology and seduction playing the main roles.

Edwin van den Hoek on SS25: Goodbye throwaway culture, hello upcycling

The first theme is called “Handmade” and draws attention to upcycling clothing, buying second-hand items and using surplus items. We want nicer, bigger, more expensive things, but what if we can find something even nicer in what is already there? asks Van den Hoek. The message is clear: we have to free ourselves from the throwaway culture and revalue what we have.

For clothing, this means that it is made from leftover or reused materials. What is characteristic here is the patchwork, in which individual parts are put together to form a whole. The beauty of the well-known ripped jeans returns here too. This trend also extends to knitwear, which will increasingly have tears and holes. In addition, there is room for embellished clothing.

Diesel Spring Summer 2023, Ready to Wear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Lauchmetrics/spotlight

As part of the “Handmade” trend, we will not only enhance garments, but also express our appreciation for different cultures. “We want to connect with the people who make our products,” says the trend researcher. This manifests itself in large graphics on clothing. An example is the work of the designer Chulaap.

ChulaapSpring Summer 2024, Menswear
Chulaap Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Chulaap Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Chulaap Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Casablanca Spring Summer 2023, Menswear
Casablanca Spring Summer 2023, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics

Menswear trend SS25: graphics, playfulness and candy colors

While we adhered to Marie Kondo’s tidying method – which consists of tidying, throwing away and organizing – and strived for a minimalist life during the Corona period, now is a time when we pull out all the stops. The inner child comes out again, says Van den Hoek.

In the “Artifical” theme, this is reflected in “childlike graphics” and intense colors reminiscent of toys, as well as pastel tones. The trend researcher can imagine transferring this topic to the store concept.

To give an example of fashion brands that have already embraced this trend, let’s delve into the archives of Louis Vuitton and Moschino. Louis Vuitton is known for its block print, which, combined with the intense colors, speaks to this theme. Gucci and Moschino also show good examples of the graphic trend.

Louis Vuitton SS24 Menswear
Louis Vuitton SS24 Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Launchmetrics/spotlight
Launchmetrics/spotlight Image: Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2024, menswear
Moschino Spring Summer 2023, menswear
Moschino Spring Summer 2023, menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight

Men’s fashion SS25: ergonomics and new shapes

For the topic “Advanced”, Van den Hoek reaches for the crystal ball and delves into the future. “In this trend, we are exploring what technology can bring us,” he promises. And the industry is already working hard on it. For example, QR codes are being developed for clothing labels, which can be used to retrieve all information about a piece of clothing. In other words: transparency plays a big role. We are also looking for new materials that can be obtained from algae, bacteria and fungi using new technologies. It is now time for the experimental phase to give way to increasingly concrete concepts.

Another aspect of this topic is that brands are starting to represent their view of the future through AI-generated shopping concepts or clothing items. This manifests itself in outfits that look futuristic and ergonomic. Garments are increasingly being created with programs that allow you to design in 3D, says the trend researcher. “People will design around the body so that the ergonomics are clearly expressed.” Typical of this trend are balaclavas and the creation of new silhouettes, such as the cape. As far as colors go, there will be mostly light, neutral colors.

Chulaap Fall Winter 2019, Ready to Wear
Chulaap Fall Winter 2019, Ready to Wear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Burc Akyol Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Burc Akyol Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Burc Akyol Spring Summer 2024
Burc Akyol Spring Summer 2024 Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight

“What also characterizes this topic is the way we look at materials to make them as functional as possible,” says Van den Hoek. In fashion, cargo pants will evolve into “multi-multi-pocket” pants. “Useful for all men who often put their wallet, cell phone and keys in their pockets,” jokes the trend researcher. Not only trousers are equipped with many pockets, but also jackets and body warmers. Accessories also play a big role in this trend. Belts, for example, are converted into ‘work belts’.

Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Prada Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight

Edwin van den Hoek: “We will lend each other clothes”

The latest theme follows a trend that was also seen at the presentation for FW24. The blurring between male and female silhouettes is revisited in “Seductive.” Van den Hoek reiterates that not all men will soon be walking around in skirts, but that there is a possibility. “We’ll lend each other clothes,” he says. This trend uses, for example, lace, which was previously considered a feminine fabric, but also openwork and mesh fabric. In addition, the shirt with a deep V-neck is on the rise. It may be clear that the focus is on displaying the male body.

To illustrate this trend, let’s take Dior and Dsquared as examples. Dior, for example, has been combing through its archive of women’s fashion to put together a men’s collection for the coming seasons. The result is collections that contain feminine tones, but are certainly tolerated by men who like that little something extra.

Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Dolce&Gabbana Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Dolce&Gabbana Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
DSquared2 Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
DSquared2 Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight

Even the extravagant men are not forgotten in this trend. Garments with beads, sequins and glitter from women’s wardrobes do not go unnoticed by men. This, combined with moulage, pleats and ruffles, completes the whole thing. “Everything that was first seen among women is now also available among men,” concludes the trend researcher. The tie gives way to a delicate scarf.

Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear
Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, Menswear Image: Launchmetrics/spotlight

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.nl. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.

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