London Fashion Week was “a study in a sophisticated effect”

For many, the autumn/winter season 2025 of the London Fashion Week seemed to be somewhat calmer. The effects of the shorter schedule and the failure of looking for prominent designers: inside and JW Anderson were clearly noticeable, but the fashion week also showed how resistant and creative the designers are: inside in London.

For Simon Longland, Buying Director for fashion at the British luxury department store Harrod, the London Fashion Week was revolving this season for “reluctance and power of effect”. The best collection came from Erdem, which he described as “extraordinary”. Huishan Zhang, Roksanda, SS Daley, Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha and Burberry also made an impression on him.

“The London Fashion Week H/W 25 was a study in a sophisticated impact, with Erdem delivered the most unusual collection of the season – its poetic elegance was strengthened by a masterful presentation in the British Museum,” said Longland. “Huishan Zhang and Roksanda continued to shape the London narratives and balanced precision with fluidity.”

Trends: green tones, inspiration from art, decorations and statement upper clothing

With regard to trends, the Harrods shopping manager felt attracted to all green tones, decorated details, influences from the 1960s and luxurious outer clothing as well as the inspiration from the art world.

He noticed Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie, who brought portrait painting on fabrics, and how SS Daley channeled the brush tour of the British painter Francis Cadells. Roksanda, known for the use of color blocking and sculptural forms, also reinterpreted the sculptural language of the British artist Phyllida Barlows in volume and form.

“Green in its many tones – Mint, apple, grass – ran through the collections of Erdem, Huishan Zhang and Emilia Wickstead,” said Longland. “The focus was on decorations, from crystal robes to subtle sequin inserts. An influence of the 1960s brought newly interpreted Pillbox hats, sculptural mini skirts and new PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while the color pallets weakened-but still targeted tones defined Roksanda, Erdem and Edeline Lee. “

The outwear continued to shone this season, with Longland found that the designers: inside, both opted for “function and enjoyment”. “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rochas pearl-occupied hardware raised functionality to luxury,” said the chief buyer. “Nowhere was this clearer than with Burberry, where trench coats, coats and rain capes in deep earth tones reaffirmed the championship of the house under the protection against the elements. The iconic decay pattern appeared with subtle reluctance and reinforced the legacy through silent sophistication. ”

Overall, Longland was concerned with “reluctance and impact – where luxury consciously measured, measured innovation and the conversation between the past and the present was more convincing than ever.”