A quick look at the program of the last London fashion week left many questions unanswered. The menswear June 2023 edition was heavily constrained compared to previous seasons, but still in a format that seemed more hybrid than ever. A series of physical fashion shows, digital presentations and lectures and panel discussions took place in London over the weekend of June 9-12, although only six designers attended.
While the city’s major fashion weeks typically take place in February and September, the four-day event is now more of an experiment for the future, fusing technology and culture while promoting up-and-coming British names. The British Fashion Council (BFC) is re-engaging with local talent to bolster the UK industry. The move was announced in a letter from chairman David Pemsel to BFC members last week ahead of the event.
In the letter, Pemsel, who was appointed in October last year, said he wanted to support UK-based brands in managing the difficult environment they are currently facing, in large part due to the Brexit regulations that will follow caused by the pandemic and other socio-economic factors. His primary focus is on commercial and cultural innovation, developing the history of British fashion and fostering responsible growth through accessible opportunities for the next generation of talent.
Pemsel’s focus on nurturing emerging designers was already evident in the June issue with the inclusion of three universities, including the University of Westminster, Ravensbourne University London and the University of East London, each running their own fashion shows presented by their graduates. There were also two educational panel discussions, one on the future of menswear, the other on ‘the Asian man’ with the subtitle ‘An exploration into the forgotten style tribe’.
Gender-neutral fashion is catching on
As for the roster of designers, the reduced program was deliberately dedicated to smaller brands and a wider audience, with less exclusive in-person events offered to further democratize the platform. In line with the last rebranding in 2020, the event continues to take a gender-neutral approach to menswear, with select attendees opting to showcase unisex and androgynous styles.
The first presentation was by Hoor Al Qasimi, Creative Director of Qasimi, whose men’s and women’s collections were inspired by the Sudanese artist Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq, reflected in the use of earth tones, traditional silk printing and intricate craftsmanship. Qasimi also took the opportunity to showcase the work of two designers from their fashion incubator Qasimi Rising, Omer Asim and Salim Azzam.
Los Angeles-based menswear brand Justin Cassin also returned to the program on the same day, having previously shown their AW23 collection in London. For the AW24 collection, however, the designer opted for an evening show at the Vinyl Factory in Soho, where he once again presented his own take on British tailoring, using structured silhouettes and experimental techniques.
In contrast to Cassin’s no-frills line, Sagaboi presented an alternative, tongue-in-cheek take on gender-neutral fashion. Founded by Geoff Cooper, the label combines Trinidadian roots with streetwear, drawing on its connection to the ‘Sagaboys’, a Caribbean subculture that emerged in the 1930s as a rebellion against overtly masculine ideals. Printed t-shirts with slogans like “Lawd ‘ave Mercy” were paired with retro-inspired trousers, while other nods to bygone fashion eras were seen in suiting and crocheted knitwear.
Rounding out the array of designers was Woolmark International Prize winner and NewGen award winner Saul Nash, who took to the beach with his SS24 collection. With the ‘Intersection’ collection, he paid tribute to his parents’ heritage by combining Guyanese, English and Mauritian roots in a casual parade of looks. Swim trunks were paired with matching tops and skin-tight tops contrasted with embroidered sailor jackets, all in bold, contrasting hues.
outlook
With this short edition concluded, the British Fashion Council is now looking to the seasons ahead – with the new strategy in mind. While the large-scale womenswear editions are likely to remain an integral part of the organization’s activities and will therefore remain largely unchanged, CEO Caroline Rush explained in an interview with WWD ahead of the June edition that the BFC, in light of the evolving needs of designers considering significant changes to its menswear program.
Rush referred to last weekend’s fashion week as a “transitional period,” noting that the next will be very different. She added that such changes could see the launch of a new platform geared towards engaging menswear companies that typically steer clear of the runway shows, such as Savile Row designers, many of whom tend to Events like the Pitti Uomo are preferable to the LFW. Although not yet confirmed, the measures could be so drastic that the January edition of LFW, which originally focused on menswear, could no longer take place.
Efforts to support the industry were reiterated by Pemsel in his letter, stating: “We have an unwavering belief in the British fashion industry, its creative heartbeat and London as a global fashion capital. Our companies are innovators, challengers and provocateurs, and our ambitions are too big to be constrained by BFC’s small team. We as an industry have demonstrated our strength as a community through the pandemic and are using that strength in the community to collectively do what we can all do to maintain our pre-eminence as creatives, innovators and enablers in the industry and strengthen.”
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.