CIt’s a game that is played every autumn on the fashion field: the one between feminine and masculine style. And the match of the season has a specific name, derby. Nothing to do with football, even if the vocabulary is the same. Derby shoesIn fact, they owe their name rather to the Duke of Derby, an elegant gentleman who was the first to show them off during hunting trips in the 19th century. Since then, the legendary lace-ups they have become the historical rivals of the similar Oxfords in the silhouette, but more formal and compact in the lacing.
Comfortable, versatile, modern: today the derby wins on penalties. And it undermines the supremacy of moccasins and boots in this cold season, thanks to the comfortable, elegant and openly unisex upper. What are the top models of women’s lace-up shoes for Autumn-Winter 2025/2026? And how are they worn?
The trendy lace-up shoes for Autumn-Winter 2025/2026
On the catwalk, the match is played on equal terms. Lace-up shoes for women tout court they return to the field with two specific styles. On the one hand, the hyper feminine versions: how the Lisa by Celinecharacterized by the flat sole and soft upper, protagonists of the Spring-Summer 2026 fashion show and inspired by flamenco shoes. The new ones are part of the same team Souris by Lemaire, minimalist lace-up shoes with an almond silhouette and thin laces, halfway between a ballerina and an oxford. The Row and the Repetto x Jacquemus collaboration also interpret lace-ups in an ultra chic way for her, turning the androgynous character of the It Shoe into models with an exquisitely Parisian taste.
The hyper-classic version, the one most faithful to the English tradition, is still successful: shiny and structured shoes, more or less squared or tapered, how they teach Church’s and Tod’s. Or decorated with para logo (Miu Miu) or brogue décor (Emporio Armani): lace-up models that seem to have come from his shoe rack but become a statement in the outfits of the most glamorous women.
“Lise” low leather lace-ups, Celine.
Lace-up shoes, outfits for hyper chic women
All the charm of discretion. From the street to the catwalk, derby shoes are worn today with extreme freedom. The trendsetters protagonists of street style wear them with contrasting ribbed socks, straight jeans and leather bomber jackets, for urban looks with a college twist. But a mini sheath dress and an oversized blazer are enough to transform them into unconventional office shoes.
Derby shoes are worn with veiled Parisian shoes according to Victoria Beckham Autumn-Winter 2025/2026 (Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The most sought-after inspirations in terms of looks parade on the Autumn-Winter 2025/2026 catwalks: Victoria Beckham suggests wearing women’s lace-ups with Parisian stockings and sheer black knee-highsMichael Kors Collection with the midi skirt or with a wide slit, Calvin Klein Collection under a maxi enveloping coat.
Mona Tougaard in a leather jacket, jeans and derby shoes outside the Chanel fashion show (Photo by Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images).
A game of contrasts that hits the mark, every time. AND the derby ends with a clear result: 1 to 0 for the lace-ups. Because there is no need to choose between masculine and feminine, between comfort and style.
Just fasten them and face with the confidence of someone who is already anticipating victory on the field of style.