In today’s rapidly evolving luxury market, Calle Del Mar is betting that craftsmanship – not speed – will win over the next generation of European consumers. The Californian knitwear label is not just entering the market to reach new retailers. It also wants to develop a region that still protects and invests in crafts. For Calle Del Mar, Europe represents both a commercial opportunity and access to a production ecosystem needed to scale artisanal knitwear responsibly without compromising the handmade ethos.
To take the first steps in this new field, Calle Del Mar chose Paris Fashion Week for its debut and held a preview of its Spring/Summer 2026 collection outside of the official program. The decision to venture further is a response to increased activity in the region, the brand’s founder and creative director, Aza Ziegler, tells FashionUnited. The growing adoption of online orders in Europe, both direct to consumers and online, has made the market attractive for customer acquisition and retention. Paris in particular, says Ziegler, is the ideal bridge between European buyers and the spinning mills and workshops with which the brand establishes collaborations.
“We wanted to make sure that our customers could discover our knitwear up close in brick-and-mortar stores,” says Ziegler. “There is something special about feeling our pieces in person. They are extremely tactile and luxurious and stand out so well. We brought our collection to Paris to welcome a more international circle of buyers, press and stylists.”
Partnerships with Paris and London boutiques reflect a selective wholesale approach
Europe also has a high concentration of luxury buyers who have high brand loyalty. This makes it the largest regional market specifically for luxury knitwear. According to DataIntelo, the sector generated revenue of around $4.2 billion (approximately €3.88 billion) in 2024 and is expected to maintain steady growth in the coming years. This is because investments are focused on sustainable fashion and digital transformation. For a brand characterized by slow production and tactility, the timing fits with a broader shift in luxury purchasing behavior: consumers are looking for fewer but better pieces.
Calle Del Mar’s European market entry begins with the region’s influential network of independent multi-brand boutiques, which continue to be important trendsetters. The brand has partnered with Paris boutique Merci and London designer fashion store Koibird, reflecting its selective wholesale approach.
“Above all, we are looking for partners who have a very clear point of view. We are often drawn to businesses that think differently, challenge the industry norms a little and have a very personal, warm connection to their communities,” explains Ziegler. Rather than aiming for rapid geographic expansion, the brand instead pursues building deep relationships with retailers who understand craftsmanship.
Balancing an online presence with physical retail is a strategy many emerging brands are struggling with in the face of industry-wide headwinds. Luxury online retailers such as Net-a-Porter, an existing partner of Calle Del Mar, are also navigating a challenging environment. In the case of Net-a-Porter, parent company Yoox changed hands and MyTheresa took over. Although such changes are becoming more common, Ziegler reiterates that Net-a-Porter in particular has remained a supportive partner with which she has seen positive growth.
However, one of the biggest operational challenges for Calle Del Mar is import and export, which Ziegler says is becoming more difficult than ever in America. The complexities of tariffs and trade tensions have led brands to explore local production. However, Ziegler is optimistic that the brand can overcome all obstacles. “We honestly see endless opportunities to grow the business in new geographies and find our pieces eloquently fit the lifestyle,” she adds.
Europe’s craft ecosystem attracts Calle Del Mar
If Europe offers commercial access, it also offers something that is harder to find in the United States: the preservation of craftsmanship. Large luxury corporations have invested heavily in training craftsmen and local production. In this way, they secure know-how and avoid a shortage of skilled workers. This indirectly supports small brands that are looking for European production partners. For Calle Del Mar, this not only means access to suppliers, but also to cross-generational knowledge that aligns with their passion for living craft traditions.
“[Die USA] have [die traditionelle Handwerkskunst] not preserved in the same way as Europe.”
The brand has long defended its identity as “handmade in California,” supporting its local community and the hands that make the garments. However, Ziegler admits that the expansion highlights the limits of the supply of skilled workers in the US, where there are “simply fewer tradespeople”. “Our country has not preserved these traditions in the same way as Europe,” she says.
With European collaborations already underway, Calle Del Mar is exploring a hybrid production model that prioritizes craftsmanship across borders. The brand has existing relationships with spinning mills in Italy and Scotland. There she continues a process that is shaped by working with generations of craftsmen. “Expanding production worldwide has always been part of our long-term vision,” notes Ziegler.
“As we expand into Europe, we hope to expand our production there as well and are already developing there,” she adds. “In an ideal world, we would be able to sell the products made closest to the region to which they are shipped. This approach not only reduces our global shipping footprint, but also deepens our connection to regional craft traditions. However, we recognize that this may not be possible.”
This does not mean that Calle Del Mar plans to abandon production in the USA. Instead, the European operations will support and strengthen the brand’s ability to scale. “Our focus remains on working with qualified craftsmen, wherever they are, while maintaining the same values of quality, care and environmental responsibility,” adds Ziegler.
Hospitality offers growth opportunities
When it comes to the changing regulatory landscape in Europe, Calle Del Mar is already one step ahead. Well-thought-out production has long been a core value of the brand. It works with Italian spinning mills that are very familiar with evolving European environmental standards. Ziegler notes that production partners are continually improving their sustainability practices. This ranges from using recycled water systems for dyeing to unwinding yarn for reuse.
“There is an enthusiasm for innovation and a return to the way things should be made, with respect for the planet,” says Ziegler. “It’s an ongoing process, but we spend a lot of time in the development phase of each piece and each new fiber we use. This refinement allows us to only share pieces with the world that we can truly stand behind with pride.”
“Our materials, thoughtful production and love of craftsmanship are what set the brand apart.”
These values are reflected in Calle Del Mar’s SS26 knitwear collection, the first to launch in Europe. The line focuses on the brand’s signature knitted viscose, developed with a family-run Italian mill. It complements the brand’s cashmere winter collections and forms a year-round merchandising structure. According to Ziegler, this creates a “healthy business all year round”. For retailers, this offers seasonal inventory and a long shelf life. “Some may call this a gap in the market,” Ziegler adds. “Our materials, thoughtful production and love of craftsmanship are what set the brand apart.”
To introduce the brand to new audiences, Calle Del Mar also leverages hospitality partnerships and places garments in places where customers live and travel. “Hospitality is such an appealing sector to us because it embodies the same sense of lightness, warmth and luxury that inspires our collections,” she says. “We have always viewed Calle Del Mar as a lifestyle brand, not just a label. As we continue to grow, we want to express this holistically through environments, experiences, homewares and partnerships that celebrate the way our community lives and travels.”
Looking ahead, Ziegler says the brand is in early talks for multiple projects. The new proximity to Europe could potentially open further doors. “Being physically present here allows us to introduce the brand to a broader audience. We can see how customers from different regions connect with our product and see where we should deepen our focus next,” she explains.
Calle Del Mar now stands as a case study: an emerging, artisanal brand that is scaling without sacrificing its identity. Instead of trading intimacy for speed, the brand is building a limitless, craft-based ecosystem. In doing so, she fuses American heritage with European craft infrastructure. The result is a growth strategy based on quality rather than volume: a welcome stance in today’s luxury market.
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