In Cannes, Mare di Moda confirmed that trade fairs are no longer passive venues that only attract the curious. Rather, they have become active platforms for action. Beachwear is becoming the engine of an industrial transformation in which technology, sustainability and design come together.
What are trade fairs still used for today?
If you look around the corridors of Mare di Moda 2025, one theory is confirmed. The days of just coming to see trends or request samples are over. From October 22nd to 24th, textile and swimwear industry professionals came to Cannes to forge alliances. They wanted to sign contracts and develop solutions together.
“Brands are no longer satisfied with inspiration, they want solutions,” summarizes Umberto Amato, textile communications consultant. “Today, exhibitors can create a complete collection for you – from yarn to marketing storytelling.”
With almost 110 exhibitors from over 20 countries, Mare di Moda positions itself as a Euro-Mediterranean hub for intelligent textiles. These include around 15 that specialize in sourcing for business-to-business and ready-to-wear. The goal is clearly stated between the Italian, French and Dutch actors: it is about protecting the European industry and at the same time making it more agile and competitive.
Beachwear: Small sector, big vitality
Long considered a niche segment, beachwear is now establishing itself as one of the most dynamic laboratories for textile innovations.
Why? Because beachwear combines all modern requirements for materials: UV and chlorine resistance, quick drying, comfort, aesthetics and, more recently, circularity. Paradoxically, beachwear, which was once criticized for its high elastane content, is now at the forefront of sustainable solutions.
However, through constant innovation, these highly technical fabrics are now also used in the areas of sportswear, yoga, travelwear and leisurewear. This blurs the lines between performance and style.
“It’s a magical substance,” smiles Amato. “Cotton and wool are not very innovative. Every season brings technical progress.”
Essentially, this diversity perhaps reflects a broader shift in mentality. Fashion is caught up in its own speed. Since she can’t keep up with the pace of production, she reinvents herself. The focus is on sustainability, functionality and meaning.
Biodegradability and digital product passport: imperatives of longevity
This technical requirement has become the flagship of the European industry. Mare di Moda is committed to protecting them and promoting positioning in the mid- to luxury segment.
This dynamic combines with the wave of travelwear. These are smart, ready-to-wear garments that no longer wrinkle and embody the concept of “Fashion and Function”. Brands, from specialists to luxury houses such as Fendi, Loro Piana and Cucinelli, integrate this duality. In doing so, they are responding to a new priority among young consumers. They prefer distant experiences and therefore their travel wardrobe over pure high fashion.
The two big trends presented at the show are biodegradability and textile-to-textile recycling. The industry now offers materials that decompose in the environment within two to three years. The goal is to reach the one-year threshold within five years. In addition, new machines enable the mechanical separation of elastane and jersey. This paves the way for full recycling of swimwear.
This transformation reflects regulatory developments. The introduction of the digital product passport and European laws such as extended producer responsibility (EPR) are seen as a lever to redefine the concept of quality.
“The digital product passport will be very important for fashion in general. […] You can pay 3000 euros for a shirt, but you also have to deliver quality. Otherwise, customers will spend their money elsewhere,” emphasizes Amato.
It’s time for him to change the mentality. It’s about valuing the durability and longevity of a quality piece rather than the amount of mediocre clothing. The future will also lie in the creation of collection and recycling centers in Europe, similar to those that already exist for glass and aluminum.
Lycra, Carvico, Arena: collaboration as the new standard
In the panel discussion “From fiber to sustainable swimwear: a blue print for collaboration,” Lycra, Carvico and Arena shared a common belief: “Sustainability is no longer just proclaimed, it is proven.”
Alistair Williamson, Vice President Apparel for the Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) and South Asia regions at The LYCRA Company, emphasizes: “Without our customers, our company cannot progress. We develop together and adapt the solutions together.”
The group presented its bio-based innovations such as Qira. This is a spandex derived from corn-based BDO, USDA certified and made in Singapore. A costly step, as Williamson admits, but an essential one: “Bio-based materials are more expensive, but we have to go this way. That is the price of responsibility.”
At the Italian company Carvico, sustainability is no longer a marketing argument, but rather “the logical consequence of a long journey”. Italian swimwear manufacturer Arena reminds us that even in the performance segment, consumers today demand evidence rather than just words.
A trade fair as a reflection of an innovative industry
Between technical innovations, environmental awareness and new industrial collaborations, Mare di Moda 2025 acts as a barometer for the European textile industry. This redefines itself there at the interface of luxury, performance and verifiability.
And on the thorny question of price, at a time when, as Amato notes, “even the wealthiest consumers who once spent money without hesitation now demand quality,” Williamson replies: “Price only matters when value is missing.”
US company Lycra is adapting by targeting new segments such as workwear and suiting, which are now incorporating stretch materials for the first time. Product launches such as Lycra Adaptive, which expands the freedom of movement in clothing, or the bio-based innovation Qira made from corn illustrate the company’s strategy.
As far as evidence is concerned, Carvico and Arena spoke in particular about the complex certifications. These range from growing the corn for the BDO used by Lycra to the finished product.
The real regulatory challenge? Although Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) imposes costs on the industry, Williamson strongly supports this approach. He sees this as an opportunity to promote rethinking in production. However, the difficulty lies in European harmonization and the development of large-scale industrial recycling capacities.
For Lycra, collaboration is the key word. It expresses itself in constant joint development with brands and manufacturers to ensure that their brand stands for quality. Only by making clothing more durable and comfortable and improving the customer experience, as with the slogan “Coolmax makes you feel cool and dry,” can the industry reverse the trend.
At the end of this event, it seems that fashion is no longer inspiring technology, but rather technology is redefining fashion. And in Cannes this year, elegance seemed to coincide with sophistication.
FashionUnited was invited to visit the Mare di Moda trade fair.
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