Finally experience something again and break out of everyday life. From the city boy you go to the wilderness for case/winter 2025, where modern cowboys and knights saddle the horses. Or was everything just a dream? This is answered by the stories that the menswear designs in Paris, Milan, Berlin, Seoul and New York tell.
Modern Middle Ages
The journey through time begins in the Middle Ages and deals with hero: inside and mystical characters. The designers: Inside, the trends of the knights and elves catapult into modern times, where they encounter modern cuts and materials.
The absolute pioneer of this movement is Marie Lueder. The designer is known for integrating this past time and her personalities into her collections. Even if she dealt with archetypes of the 21st century this season such as the hooligan or the decadent romantic, the Middle Ages continued to play a role. Werewolves were part of the collection as a print and styling in the form of long, pointed fingernails and “blood -smeared teeth”. In addition, the native of Hamburg integrated a mixture of sweaters and monk caps, which has already been part of the past collections.
A less sporty but similar hooded overload could be seen at Ziggy Chen. However, the Chinese designer combined the accessory with rather classic and workwear-oriented looks. The reserved color palette, fabric selection and clothing such as two -row shirts and a short jacket achieved the image of a craftsmanship of the Middle Ages like that of the miller.
Meanwhile, Kiko Kostadinov combined modern sports and workwear with this medieval mystical world. The resulting characters looked like a video game in which these two stylistic references came together in a natural way and did not hit each other. A color palette that reminded of training suits from the 90s with their bright tones met huge scarves that reminded of accessories. Elfen-like make-up and hairstyling, coat of arms print and medieval hoods supplemented the collection of the London designer.
At the designer Carolina Sarria based in New York, everything was all about the crown. The rather punken collection that brought a do-it-yourself character with it rely on classic coat of arms such as lions, dragons and the crown that ran through the collection. Color splashes, chunky boots, tartan and patchwork illustrate the balancing act between the Middle Ages and punk.
New Cowboys
As in the previous seasons, the cowboy look was also an important topic for the FW25 collections. But while some brands like Sean Suen were still focusing on looks that reminded of the old Wild-West classics, others reinterpreted the style.
The Swedish brand Acne Studios relied on typical cowboy elements such as denim, boots and large belt buckles, but then combined them with a shortened T-shirt in pink and a tight-fitting jacket. Accessories of this kind were also used for the streetwear brand Kidsuper, which is known for their imaginative design. Belt buckles and boloties [Anm.d.Red.: Cowboy-Krawatte] Got a playful twist like a green head. Meanwhile, the French label Ami experimented with the bandit silhouette and let out a light yellow shirt with a suitable scarf under a heavy, long coat.
Meanwhile, BlueMarble romantized the rural view with T-shirt slogans like “Countryside is for lovers” (narrow. The French brand integrated the cowboy trend through lederhosen with fringes, jeans in brown leather boots and floral embroidery that reminded of the shirts of the cow shepherds.
Outdoor adventurer
The brands also stayed off the side outdoor range and not only inspired themselves from the work of the cowboys. Workwear looks with many layers and dark colors played a central role. Work jackets and vests were used with many bags, for which the fashion brands relied on the specialist: inside. The Japanese luxury brand Sacai collaborated again with Carhartt Work in Progress, the streetwear branch of the workwear brand of the same name, for various jackets and sweaters, while compatriot Junya Watanab was hunting with Filson. The Japanese fashion designer used the expertise of the American outdoor provider for lumberjack shirts and outerwear reminded of North American hunters. Under the many layers of the workwear look, a patterned shirt including tie always flashed out at Watanabe.
After the done work, we went on a hiking or camping tour. While some brands like Emporio Armani focused on the right look for an outdoor adventure with suitable waterproof clothing, other brands experiment with the equipment. You could see everyday objects such as quilting ceilings at Kidsuper and entire tents at the Japanese label Kookaburra and the Korean brand. Slaps and backpack straps added this approach.
Mumble
So that it doesn’t get too cold at the freezing temperatures at night, some brands also thought of the right outfit. From morning coats and hot bottles decorated with cartoon motifs at Doublet to fluffy blankets and pillows inspired look at the Paris Streetwear brand 3. Paradis, they showed how to mumble well.
The designer Andrej Gronau based in London meanwhile had nostalgic dreams at his Berlin debut and remembered his grandma’s home. The Kitsch -shaped collection offered wool sweaters with floral prints, which in the color compilation would also be conceivable as a ceiling of older relatives.
Fur jackets
None of the men’s fashion weeks came by the use of jackets with a fur look this season. From the cow skin-like vest with ‘Faux for’ hood at the Italian fashion house Prada via the urban two-part set made of hooded jacket and short pants at Kidsuper to the shoulder-free coat at Berliner Label GmbH was there for everyone.
David Koma used the fur look for a large part of his menswear collection. In addition to various long jackets and coats, accessories such as hats, belts, ties and even the coffee mug holder could also be seen.
