The ambitious French anti-fast fashion law “Loi Violland” is in limbo. Although the French Senate passed the law in 2025, the European Commission objected last September and reiterated its veto in April.
Brussels argues that the law violates the principles of the European internal market and is discriminatory. This emerges from public dossier 2025/0336 on the European Commission website. France must suspend the adoption of the law until at least the end of 2026.
E-Commerce Directive and Digital Services Act
The biggest stumbling block for the Commission is the contradiction with the E-Commerce Directive and the Digital Services Act (DSA). The E-Commerce Directive (2000/31/EC) is based on the country of origin principle. This means that service providers, including online shops, are only subject to the regulations of the member state in which they are based. The rules of the country in which the consumer lives do not apply.
France is now trying to ban advertising from companies such as Ireland-based Shein. This would impose its own national rules on a company officially governed by Irish law.
The DSA is a European set of rules that is intended to enable uniform action against illegal online content within the EU and thus protect consumers. France, on the other hand, proposes a specific approach: online shops should display additional information about the fast fashion character in the form of a warning as well as information about the origin of the products right next to the price. The Commission argues that the DSA was created to reduce administrative burdens. She fears that other member states could introduce similar national regulations.
Finally, the European Commission also has concerns about the planned fine for brands like Shein. This is expected to increase to five to ten euros per item of clothing by 2030. The resistance is particularly directed against the tax on small packages (“les petits colis”), which was included as an additional component in the law. Brussels fears that this French levy could affect EU-wide customs reforms planned for 2028.
Future of the “Loi Violland”
In order to save the law, the environmental organization Refashion was commissioned to formulate objective criteria for ultra-fast fashion. These should be based on production volumes and sustainability efforts. The as yet unpublished result of this investigation is crucial for the Commission to take further steps.
The future of the “Loi Violland” now lies with a mediation committee (CMP), which must reconcile French ambitions with the demands of Brussels. It is likely that parts such as the advertising ban and the small package tax will have to be removed for European approval. The fashion industry remains uncertain for the time being, while the political “telenovela” – as the dispute is now called on LinkedIn – between Paris and Brussels continues.
“This law needs approval from Brussels,” explains Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, expert at 2B Policy, on LinkedIn. He sees opportunities for France to adapt the original draft law in line with the ideas of the European Commission. The system of punishing “bad” producers and rewarding “good” ones could be eliminated. “For now, however, France and the European Commission do not agree.”
“Strictly speaking, France would have to significantly change its legislation at this point to ensure that it meets the EU’s selection criteria. Otherwise, brands would likely challenge this legislation in court, leading to its repeal,” he told FashionUnited.
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