Paris Fashion Week for men starts on Tuesday and promises some highlights. These include Jonathan Anderson’s new collection for Dior, Sarah Burton’s first men’s collection for Givenchy and Willy Chavarria’s Chicano-inspired design.
Hybrid masculinity
Over six days, around 70 brands will present their new men’s collections for the coming spring/summer. The upheavals of last year, which saw new creatives take over the reins of legendary houses like Chanel and Dior, are gradually receding. Expectations now turn to how these designers’ styles will become established. The turbulent geopolitical situation could also be reflected on the catwalks.
“As social, cultural and even political relationships become more complex, it always leads to a more creative response,” explains Patrick Clark, the magazine’s fashion editor GQFrancetold AFP. In his opinion, “there is a real desire among men to question the codes and techniques normally reserved for women’s fashion. These are now being integrated and embraced in men’s fashion.”
The result will be fashion that moves towards an ’emerging, more hybrid masculinity’. This was already evident in previous seasons through more romantic, dandy-like men’s silhouettes.
Anderson in focus
Jonathan Anderson will once again take center stage with his third men’s collection for Dior. In January he presented a design that mixed aristocratic and punk elements. The 41-year-old Northern Irishman is considered one of fashion’s prodigies and is known for his exuberant creativity. He could surprise again with his unusual combinations.
“I like to randomly throw ideas out there and see what works. I don’t mind failing or being wrong. What I definitely don’t want to do is create something banal,” he recently told the French newspaper Le Monde.
The fashion show, scheduled for Wednesday at 2:30 p.m. Paris time, has been brought forward to 9 a.m. due to the heat wave currently affecting France.
In addition to Anderson’s Dior, Louis Vuitton’s show is highly anticipated on Tuesday. There, Pharrell Williams will likely bring all his ingenuity to bear on a spectacular, star-studded show.
A breath of fresh air at Givenchy and Celine
Brit Sarah Burton will present her first men’s collection for Givenchy. This comes in the ‘Presentation’ category, almost two years after her appointment.
“We will see a lot of tailoring, a lot of 3D garments and pieces with sleeves…,” predicts Marc Beaugé, director of the French magazine L’Etiquetteabout the designer. She is known for her masterful tailoring and for designing Kate Middleton’s wedding dress.
Under the artistic direction of Michael Rider, Celine’s show will be one of the most acclaimed. The American creative director returns to the fashion house after a decade in the 2010s and will present his first men’s collection on Sunday.
At Hermès, the studio will be responsible for the designs on Saturday after Véronique Nichanian says goodbye after almost four decades at the helm of the men’s collections. This is in anticipation of Grace Wales Bonner’s debut in January.
The activist Willy Chavarria
The American designer with Mexican roots, Willy Chavarria, has also made a name for himself in Paris after his success in New York. He will be showing his collection in the French capital for the fourth time.
In January, he presented his collection of impeccable tailoring and retro-style pieces in a show that was a cross between a film, a concert and a fashion show. Last year, another presentation caused a stir in which several tattooed men knelt, reminiscent of images from prisons in El Salvador.
Chavarria, who is an open activist for migrants and the LGBTQ cause, often includes well-known singers in his shows, such as the Colombian J Balvin, the Chilean Mon Laferte or the Latin American group Santos Bravos.
New talents
In addition to all these famous brands, there are also young, up-and-coming designers like the Belgian Meryll Rogge, artistic director of the Italian brand Marni. She will show her men’s collection in Paris under her own eponymous brand. In her designs she experiments with materials and mixes male and female codes.
Japanese Soshi Otsuki, who won the prestigious LVMH Prize last year, is likely to showcase his flowing suits inspired by Japanese tradition.
“The younger generations perfectly embody the motto of creativity, authenticity, naturalness and personal history, which they integrate into their collections,” confirms Patrick Clark from GQFrance.
The Spanish Sonia Carrasco, with her suits with visible seams, and the Brazilian brand P_Andrade are also featured in the official calendar.
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