Against the background of the Italian parliamentary elections, the Milan Fashion Week took place with a packed program of well-known fashion houses and labels. Dramatic displays on the catwalks reflected the tense mood in the country as the most right-wing government since Mussolini was elected.
In the shows and presentations, a number of high fashion brands showcased collections that attempted to accommodate the restructuring and adjusted branding strategies that have taken place over the past year. These ranged from completely rejuvenated identities to total renewal of the creative teams or collections and shows striving for the attention of a younger generation.
The moves come amid international macroeconomic hits and various global conflicts that are straining supply chains.
Fendi focuses even more on accessories
It was the second show of the season for Fendi. The Italian fashion house already showed a first runway show during New York Fashion Week, where it presented its Resort 2023 collection. In Milan, the fashion house presented its spring/summer 2023 collection, in which the artistic director of womenswear, Kim Jones, paid homage to Karl Lagerfeld with his designs.
Jones, who succeeded the designer who died in 2019, drew on both the Fendi archives and the codes Lagerfeld developed during his tenure at the brand. These included modernizing a logo first introduced in 2000, as well as nods to Lagerfeld’s work between 1996 and 2002. “It’s about continuity,” Jones said in a statement. “I’m interested in looking at things Karl has made and how we can develop them further – both visually and technically.”
The brand, owned by LVMH, was among the French luxury goods group’s top houses in the first quarter of 2022, helping to boost its fashion and leather goods division. The company largely credited its success to its notable Peekaboo and Baguette handbag models, which likely led to the designs being featured prominently at each of its shows for the season. While the baguette took center stage at the resort show in New York, the peekaboo helped Fendi go heavy on accessories in Milan, where it became one of the brand’s key pieces.
Aside from his nods to Lagerfeld, especially in the aforementioned time span, Jones’ designs were largely tied to the ongoing Y2K trend. This was evident in his use of bright pops of color, utilitarian-inspired silhouettes and abstract cuts that defined the decade. The trend has taken off across the industry over the past two years and is being driven by Gen Z, a generation that fashion houses collectively want to reach out more to.
Designers are democratizing fashion
Glenn Martens also adopted the Y2K look for his S/S23 show from Diesel, where the creative director unveiled a denim-heavy collection. Distressed, raw, laminated and printed, the material has been used in everything from mini dresses to oversized cargo pants.
However, clothing wasn’t Diesel’s only focus. The show itself was open to the public to further democratize fashion. In addition to a live broadcast online, tickets for the physical event could also be purchased. They sold out in 90 minutes, according to the brand’s press release. Of the 4,800 attendees, 70 percent of the tickets were for people between the ages of 18 and 25, while over 1,500 Milanese fashion students also received free tickets. Collectors of Diesel non-fungible tokens (NFTs) were also given free access to the show, contributing to the digital project’s goal of creating a more exclusive feel for NFT members. Martens noted that his intention was for the event to be open to the public and people who may not have been to an event like this because “they deserve a show.”
The designer is currently carrying out a “brand evolution” at Diesel. The strategy, revealed in OTB Group’s 2021 final report, states that the company aims to reposition the brand in the alternative luxury segment. In addition to completing a sales requalification process, OTB stated that under its new creative leadership, Diesel will be looking to a trend-focused international clientele. The group’s founder and chairman, Renzo Rosso, explained to the Financial Timeshe is ready to compete with the largest French groups such as Kering and LVMH.
The focus that the group is putting on its positioning in the luxury market was also evident in the takeover of Jil Sander. A statement said the company had reached operational break-even just nine months after the acquisition. Diesel’s sister company also presented itself in Milan, albeit in a weaker form. Creative duo Luke and Lucie Meier have chosen to reunite the men’s and women’s collections after separating these two areas in 2018.
However, imaginative presentations were not in short supply, as the example of Moncler shows. Like Martens’, this show was open to the public in Piazza del Duomo. The large-scale event marked the label’s 70th anniversary and kicked off a 70-day program of global celebrations. 1,952 dancers performed on the plaza in a choreography, most of them wearing the brand’s Mayan jacket, a design that the brand sees as a bridge between its past and its future.
The group, which includes Stone Island, enjoyed strong financial results in its anniversary year, with sales up 48 percent compared to the first half of 2021. Catwalk response reflected the reported success, with 18,000 viewers: inside flocked to the central square to see the performance. Commenting on the event, Remo Ruffini, Chairman and CEO of the Moncler Group, said: “What I’m most proud of is that we brought all generations together and felt the strong energy emanating from our communities. We want to shape the next 70 years with them.”
Leadership completely renewed
In sharp contrast to Moncler’s parade of white puffer jackets, the Versace runway told the story of a “dark gothic goddess,” as Donatella Versace called her muse for this season. Alongside sturdy leather biker jackets and graphic prints, there were also intricately designed chiffon pieces and dresses, as well as many pieces made from recycled manufacturing waste, the brand said in a statement.
The collection follows an announcement by the CEO of holding company Capri Holdings. In it, John Idol said the label would raise its prices, ushering in a new era. However, unlike most retail outlets, Versace’s price increase is not due to inflation, but to the company’s intention to compete with the luxury industry. Originally, the group had stated that it wanted to achieve sales of two billion US dollars with Versace in 2020, and was pursuing the goal of generating 60 percent of its sales with accessories and shoes.
As with Fendi, Versace’s SS23 show was seen to emphasize accessories. A variety of bags from the La Medusa line were shown in the collection’s signature green, purple and metallic colors, while the new Medusa Anthem collection also offered a wide variety of models. The brand’s growth strategy will be led by its new CEO, former Alexander McQueen executive Emmanuel Gintzburger, who has been tasked with leading Versace’s strategic initiatives and future plans.
Etro is another company that has recently transformed its leadership team. This included welcoming new creative director Marco De Vincenzo. De Vincenzo made his runway debut with the brand’s SS23 collection, presenting looks that drew inspiration from Etro’s heritage and gave the brand a new perspective focused on simplicity and essentials.
The new designer also hinted at a possible sustainable perspective for the Italian label. He featured accessories that combined archival fabrics with recycled materials, as well as hand-dyed, multicolored cashmere presented in denim brocade fabrics and in the form of cotton shirts.
A change could also be felt at the Boss brand, which belongs to the Metzingen-based fashion group Hugo Boss and has undergone a complete overhaul of its identity in recent months. Recent presentations and campaigns, including the FW22 show in Milan, have aimed to present the brand’s motto ‘Be Your Own Boss’ in a modernized way. The latest collection aims to convey this message through a deconstructed idea of ’power dressing’, reimagining archival Boss garments for a new, younger generation. The runway show itself reflected this goal as well, with bikers performing gravity-defying tricks in spheres. An attempt to create another social media moment the brand has been so keen on in previous presentations. This was further reinforced by Boss’ ‘see now, buy now’ approach to these already exciting events, allowing its digitally savvy clientele to buy the catwalk looks as soon as they’re shown.
The effort for this season is part of the Hugo Boss Group’s ‘Claim 5’ growth strategy, which aims to understand a new generation of consumers. The brand said in a statement that the newly developed Boss logo was one of the driving forces behind the current collection. It strives for a new perspective on tailoring and elegant power dressing for men and women, according to the company.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ.