A year marked by controversy – Shein responds to criticism

Shein, the fast fashion monster that needs to be defeated? In 2023, the Chinese e-commerce giant was the focus of numerous criticisms and accusations. Speaking to FashionUnited, Marion Bouchut, Associate Director Public Affairs at Shein Europa, defended the company and responded to the numerous allegations it has faced over the past twelve months.

Shein faced an above-average amount of criticism in 2023…

We are aware that some people have certain opinions. However, we have also found that these opinions can be the result of a lack of knowledge or incorrect information, both about the brand and the way we work. That is understandable.

Shein is a young company and is not yet widely known in Europe. We have therefore taken initiatives over the past year to make our voices heard more widely and to communicate not only how we work, but also our vision for the future in our sector.

What fallacies do you think exist about the company?

For example, many people don’t know that we rely on an innovative small-batch production model that allows us to produce ‘on demand’, in batches of just 100 pieces, thereby minimizing excess inventory. Therefore, contrary to popular belief, our excess inventory is much lower than the traditional fashion industry average.

Likewise, many people are unaware of the policies and systems we use to ensure our suppliers adhere to our high standards of workplace health, safety and compensation. We work with external, globally recognized accounting firms to audit, report and improve compliance across the supply chain.

In the areas of social responsibility and sustainable development, we strive hard to make progress in fulfilling our commitments and increase transparency. We welcome any opportunity to explain our activities and contribute to an informed discussion about the future of the industry.

In June, an influencer tour caused controversy. Are there plans to open the doors of your factories to independent journalists in the future? ?

We value transparency and this initiative, the journey, was born from the intention of showing some of our influencer partners how we work. This is intended to give them the opportunity to share their opinions with their followers.

While we recognize that the event could have been run better, it reinforced our commitment to providing the public with a better insight into our business model and small-batch production system. In the coming months and years, we hope to have opportunities to invite more partners, journalists and stakeholders to get a closer look at how we work.

A department store owned by fast fashion giant Shein. Image: Shein

Shortly afterwards, Shein was sued by designers for infringement of intellectual property rights. Have measures been taken to prevent recurrences?

Shein respects creators and artists and the intellectual property rights of others. We take all complaints about legal violations seriously. Designers and artists work hard, and we have taken numerous initiatives to protect their efforts.

We continue to invest and improve our processes to detect and prevent violations. A global team ensures that items listed on our platform are compliant and do not contain counterfeit items. We also require our suppliers to adhere to a code of conduct that includes certification that the products they produce do not infringe the intellectual property rights of third parties.

In rare cases where our internal systems are unable to identify potentially counterfeit items, rights holders may report suspicious listings via our dedicated intellectual property complaints portal, whereupon we will promptly take appropriate action.

Is Shein in contact with the French division of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) following an investigation into the company?

Shein responded quickly and met with the OECD National Contact Point upon request. We have cooperated fully and will continue to do so to answer any questions raised by the National Contact Point.

What about the working conditions, for which Shein is regularly criticized?

Although Shein does not have its own manufacturing facilities, we recognize that our responsibility extends throughout our entire supply chain. Our principles are to work with suppliers who share our commitment to responsible practices.

Our suppliers’ responsibility standards stipulate that their employees are not allowed to work more than sixty hours per week (including overtime) and have at least one day off every seven days, except in emergencies or unusual situations.

Employee of the Shein supplier network.
Employees of the Shein supplier network. Image: Shein

What role do suppliers play in this?

We sensitize our suppliers to compliance with these standards through regular training, taking into account the specific nature of their activity and local regulations. Regular inspections lead to immediate action when violations are discovered. In addition, all new manufacturers with whom we conclude contracts must undergo an evaluation control as part of the integration process before working with Shein.

Are these checks carried out at regular intervals?

In 2022, we conducted over 2,400 audits covering more than 1,900 contracted manufacturers. They make up about 84 percent of Shein products.

How is your awareness of environmental protection?

Sustainability is a priority for us and we have launched initiatives to minimize our environmental impact at every step of the value chain. Last year we presented a 2021 report on our sustainable development and social impact.

We are committed to decarbonizing our supply chain, sourcing responsibly and promoting biodiversity and animal welfare through collective action. We have set goals that motivate our operations teams and our supply chain partners to reduce the environmental footprint of our products and facilities.

As a leading global company, Shein takes seriously its responsibility to support the local communities where we work, shop and live, and to sustain our planet.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.fr. Translated and edited by Heide Halama.

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