John Galliano Mag Maison Margiela has now left Maison Margiela, but his collaboration with Christian Louboutin for the house, which was originally presented as part of his final artisanal collection in January 2024, now finds its way from the catwalk presentation to retail.
In fact, it is not one, but two collaborations, as the brands unveiled on Wednesday: “Maison Margiela by Christian Louboutin” and “Christian Louboutin by Maison Margiela”.
The “Maison Margiela by Christian Louboutin” collection takes up the iconic Tabi design by Martin Margiela and interprets it again “by the curved and feminine design language of Christian Louboutin”. The three designs, naturally with the characteristic red sole of the designer, are based on a new variation of the iconic split toe area.
This includes the “Bridiela Una Strass”, a new interpretation of the classic bridal shoe with a 100 mm sales, made from a fine mesh with handmade crystal applications, inspired by the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection 2024. “Rosalie” silhouette emphasizes the foot vault by an asymmetrical strap that lies over the rist and ankle. The “Marlougiela” ballerina, in turn, makes the characteristic tabi form appear even more slimmer and sculptural.
On the other hand, Maison Margiela’s application of the iconic “Decortiqué” technique on Christian Louboutin’s most striking silhouettes. This design principle reduces models to their essential structure by exposing elements that are usually hidden under several material layers. Due to the conscious exposure of seams, reinforcements and closures, the collection opens up a new dimension of the shoe construction. In total, the capsule collection comprises four shoe models that were created under the creative direction of Galliano.
The “Bilougiela 25”, a sandal with ankle strap, pointed toe area and 100 mm sales, deconstructs black patent leather by a partial peeling process that reveals the underlying structure. The “Martinloula”, a pump based on the “Kate Max” striking, introduces the Faux-Cul-Jersenkappe, which was first designed for the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection in 2024. The “Xrismartenen”, a further development of the “Martinloula”, transform this concept into a knee -high boot with a deliberately collapsed leather effect. The “Martoubi 25”, a pointed pump made of white leather, is provided with a red brushstack detail on the heel cap, an allusion to Maison Margiela’s “Bianchetto” technology. This element also refers to the origins of the red sole of Louboutin, it reminds the moment when nail polish provided inspiration for its creation for the first time.
